Local Treats 3 La Loggia!

Boy are we lucky!
Our neighborhood of Ioffredo/Castello has been seeing some nice growth lately.  A couple of years ago a wonderful pasticceria opened, way up at the top of the Castello frazione.  That was followed by a small brewery and a chocolate producer.  But what we discovered the other night really made us sing!

I knew that a restaurant had opened up, a place that specialized in grilled meats, but we hadn't had the chance to visit it and frankly, I was a bit skeptical about what to expect.  But the other night our neighbors went and raved about it, so we decided to give it a try.  Believe me, it was a success!

I walked up the night before our planned dinner to make a reservation.  I was greeted so warmly by the entire staff!  Immediately one of the partners took me around to show me the work that they had done, how the entire structure had been renovated in a way that reflected and respected the history of the area.  They showed me the upstairs rooms where 50-60 diners could be accommodated, both inside and outside.  They showed me the room where they have created a "seasoning" vault, where salumi and cheeses are allowed to age.  They showed me the area that they have planned to open a small boutique that will highlight local products and wines.  And, best of all, they showed me the B&B that will be opening in October, where four rooms with baths have been prepared and where guests will be able to lose themselves in time, escaping the noise and confusion of the city for the peace and charm of our historic neighborhood.

Our dinner the following evening was one to be remembered.  The menu offered a rich variety of antipasti to start off, complete with a tagliera of prosciutto and cheeses of the highest quality, and then at least 7 other tastings....meatballs, bruschetta, mixed grain salad, bits of stewed meat, bits of "organs" that Americans might throw away, and bits of veggies that were very tasty.  After this, who could eat any more?  Well, we managed to!

 Two first courses are prepared each evening.  We had a choice of pasta and potatoes or tagliatelle with caccio e peppe.  We knew we couldn't do justice to a full plate of pasta so we were going to do without, until our server suggested just a small portion to be shared by the table.  Perfect!  Out came a lovely little crock with ladle, with which we scooped out a nice little taste of pasta e patate, just enough to let us appreciate the simplicity of this peasant dish made with top quality products.

Finally came our tagliata....grilled steaks sliced into manageable strips atop a bed of arugula and accompanied by a small salad and a platter of grilled potatoes. The meat was tender and well cooked, mine cooked rare as requested, the others cooked medium.   What we were unable to finish was packed up and carried home, to be enjoyed the next day.

I can't tell you how happy we are to have a reasonably priced fine dining establishment within walking distance of our home.  Judging from the numbers of clients we saw coming in during our dinner, we are not the only ones to appreciate the efforts of the Iuliano family.  They have added an important piece to the rebirth of Castello, bringing life and new visitors to our beautiful and quaint neighborhood.  All I can say is, we will be back, and we'll be bringing friends!

Local Treats part 2

When you have a 2 1/2 year old and a 5 year old, you have to keep them busy.  Here in Cervinara, there's not necessarily a lot for a couple of little boys to do, once you've gone to the mercato and visited the baker.  The arrival of the fruttivendolo is always a highlight of each morning, and there is always kiting around the cortile on the Spiderman bike and the little pedal tractor.  But these boys need outings, they need to see new things, they need a change of scenery.  So....we pile them into the car and go in search of fun things to do.

We in Connecticut are spoiled.  Within a ten mile radius, we have at least 7 children's museums, we have public libraries with amazing children's rooms, we have parks, ponds, and pools.  Every day there is the opportunity to get outside and burn off some steam, or stay inside and explore science, wildlife, and different cultures.  We are indeed lucky.

In Cervinara and the environs, there is very little dedicated to the youngsters so we have to be creative in the ways we can fill their days.  First, the Villa Communale, that has a very nice children's playground, shaded pathways lined with fountains, and the best gelateria in the area.  While we can walk down easily enough (maybe 1.5 miles) the trip back really needs to be made by car because it's all uphill.  Pushing a stroller and holding hands with the older one is exhausting and more than this grandma can handle.  But once in the park, the boys run around like crazy, check out all the climbing spots, and wear themselves out....only to get the sugar rush from the gelato that finishes off the visit.

There is also a pleasant pool complex in town.  On sunny, warm days it's a haven for kids of all ages.  Lots of local adolescents have summer subscriptions and show up every day to meet with their peers, strut their stuff, and take daring rides down the water slides.  Our boys enjoyed the kiddy pool and, while not cheap at 8 euros a pop plus extra for umbrella and lounge rentals, it's a nice way to wear the boys out and get in some adult swim time as well.

In Airola, a town a few miles away, there is a nice little area called Il Giardino Segreto.  It's part zoo, part botanical reserve, and part playground.  The Sunday we went, they had hired a group of actors to act out various fairy tales in the corners of the gardens.  Since the boys don't really understand Italian well enough to appreciate that, we went on our own through the paths and the various thematic gardens.  It was good for a couple of hours of exploring, but very warm and the mosquitos made it a bit uncomfortable at times.

But even after being out of the classroom for nine years, the teacher in me still reigns supreme and I can never let a more "educational moment" pass by.  We are only about 20 minutes from the big town of Benevento which is the home of some fantastic Roman ruins, so we took advantage of a nice sunny day to go wander through some history.  Daniel was indifferent to most of it, until we came to the excavations of an ancient theater.  He loved running freely up and down the ramps that were built on top of the "scavi", and gathering rocks to take home.  But James was fascinated by a huge cistern that dominated the complex.  He's been obsessed with his water barrel that we have rigged up to recapture rain water from our downspouts and was really quite impressed with the cistern that could provide water for thousands during the dry summer months.

But what has provided the most fun and interest this summer?  The baby kitty who lives in the courtyard.  The mamma and baby are naturally skittish of our two rambunctious boys, but we are winning them over with daily treats and warnings to the boys to be very quiet and patient with them.  The boys don't sit down for long anywhere else, but when the kitties are in residence they will wait patiently for a visit.

No, we don't have a lot of organized activities for a couple of youngsters, but they are enjoying a summer of exploration, freedom, and nature that is just not available back in the States.  They have learned to holler their greetings in Italian to the neighbors, they have learned how to buy bread, fruit and vegs from local vendors, they have learned about some "really old stuff", and they have learned that it's ok to live differently from what they are used to.  And those are the best lessons of all.

Local treats

Of the so many great things about living in Italy, one of the best is the opportunity to get to know a place in depth.  We are fortunate enough to be in the middle of some wonderful sites, all the more wonderful because they are not widely known.  No one would plan a trip specifically to visit our area, but those of us lucky enough to be here for the long term are able to see some interesting and picturesque spots, all within an easy drive from home.

First, the beautiful Sant'Agata dei Goti.  Settled in the early 300s, it used to be called just Sant'Agata.  Then it was conquered by the Goths and since then it has been called Saint Agatha of the Goths.  There haven't been any Goths around for quite some time, but the name has stuck.  This is not to be confused with the beautiful Sant'Agata di Puglia, which has welcomed us several times and which was the subject of one of our more harrowing driving experiences.  I'm not sure who Sant'Agata was, but she has certainly inspired some beautiful towns!

Located about a half hour from Cervinara, the road to Sant'Agata dei Goti takes us through some lovely farmland and up and down beautiful hills.  Driving into town requires crossing over a deep ravine on which the historic center is built.  Amazing views!  One of the best things about Sant'Agata is that it has parking.  Lots of parking, within a few steps of the pedestrian city center!  That's a much appreciated rarity here.  Once inside the old walls, we can stroll through cobble stone streets, make leisurely visits through the many churches and the Duomo, and finally wend our way up to the walls that look out onto that ravine.  We came here with our grandsons, two year old Daniel and five year old James.  Walking along the ramparts, Daniel kept looking over the wall and yelling, "What a view! What a view!" It's embarrassing when your grandchildren pick up and expand upon your linguistic tics, but I guess he's heard me exclaim that same sentiment more than once!

There's a pretty little park at the top of the town, with a fountain/fish pond that fascinated the boys more than any of the old buildings.  And there's a pretty café in a most  pleasant spot with "what a view!"  This little town deserves a visit and the best part is, it's easily accomplished in a couple of hours, just in time to enjoy an excellent lunch.

We needed something easy, kid friendly, and not too pricey, and our stop at the Antico Borgo filled the bill well.  While not haute cuisine, the waitstaff was wonderful and included our hostess who immediately seated us in a quiet corner and brought the boys pages of cartoon characters and markers to color them in.  When I asked that the boys be served ASAP, within five minutes their gnocchi and ravioli were on the table and they happily dug into their lunches.  This is what I like so much about small restaurants in Italy....they really will try to accommodate you and the needs of their younger clients.

So, when in Cervinara, take advantage of what the Valley has to offer and make a visit to Sant'Agata dei Goti.  You won't regret it!

Goodbyes

There are so many ways to say goodbye in the Italian language.  First, there's the ubiquitous "ciao", that has become a universal way of greeting and leaving friends and strangers alike.  Then there are the "a" words.  Arrivederci (until we see each other again), a venerdi (see you Friday), a presto (see you soon), a la prossima (until next time).  They go on and on.

And then there's "addio".  This is a hard one, because the essence of the word is one that indicates finality....we will see each other when we are with God.  It's what lovers say when they break up, it's what emigrants must say when they are leaving their home country, and it's what we say to our loved ones who have gone on to their reward.This year, as in years past, we have had to say addio to loved ones.  Our little corner of Cervinara has been hit by the loss of some of our most beloved members.

Three weeks ago, as we were leaving for a quick trip to the grocery store, we heard ambulance sirens coming up our hill.  We didn't know its destination but we were worried.  Half an hour later we returned to find a crowd gathered around our neighbor's house and we learned the sad news that Pasqualina had passed away.  Pasqualina, a gem of a woman, tiny in stature but big in heart, who sat at her kitchen window and greeted everyone who came by, who rarely left her home because of her failing vision and her frail health, but a woman who opened her heart and her home to all, left a giant hole in our hearts with her passing.

Only a few days later we heard the news that our Don Giorgio, the priest who led the Church of San Nicola for over 50 years had died in a hospital in Avellino.  We had noticed that the house where he lived across the street from us was closed up and that there was no sign of him or Teresa, his sister.  Don Giorgio had taken ill while visiting his family and had been hospitalized for several weeks and eventually succumbed to his illness.  The mass celebrating his life was packed, including the Bishop from Benevento who talked about this humble man who led a quiet life and set a good example for all in the parish.  There were at least five priests in presence who had been introduced to the canonical life by Don Giorgio.  And there were so many young people, including young men whom I remember being chastised for chatting during mass, crying at the loss of this good man.

Losing Don Giorgio has also meant losing his sister Teresa.  She was as devoted to him as any sister could be and spent her entire adult life looking after his needs and attending to the needs of the church as well.  It was she who showed me the trick of using a 10 lira coin instead of a euro to get access to the shopping carts at the Lidl supermarket.  It was she who helped me get access to a great physical therapist when I was recovering from my fractured knee.  It was she who could be counted on to squeeze four adult women in to her tiny Fiat 500 for a jaunt to the mall.  She was a friend to all.  She has gone to live with the rest of her family now, rather than stay in the empty house she shared with her brother.  The loss of both of these anchors of our neighborhood is sorely felt.

As I write these words, I am on a train heading north to Milano.  This is not a pleasure trip, and not one that we have looked forward to with anticipation.  We are going to say "addio" to our cousin Rita, who lost her battle to leukemia on Friday.  Rita was a tough woman, tiny in size but feisty and strong.  She loved to travel and we spent some great times together visiting the great sites of the Northeast and Canada, and then the wonderful parklands out west in California, Nevada and Utah.  We spent many weeks at her home in Puglia, reveling in the warmth of the sun and the warmth of her hospitality.  Our times in Puglia were marked by great food, lots of exploring the natural beauty of the area, and late night marathon card games.  How we will miss all of these!

Yes, "addio" is not a word we like to say, and yet it is an inevitable part of our lives.  We have said "addio" too often this year, but we are strengthened by the memories of the loved ones who have moved on.  You will all be missed.  You are all still loved.

Off The Road Again.....

I have written before about our adventures on Italy's secondary roads.  Well, here's another one!

We live in the foothills of the Appenines, the mountains that run like a backbone down the spine of Italy.  Leaving Cervinara and heading east, we go directly into those mountains and the roads that we find can sometimes be challenging.  The Sanctuary of Montevergine is a big draw in the area and it usually takes an hour or so to get there.  We've been several times, admiring the church and sanctuary as well as the pretty ride to get there.  How it was built more than 500 years ago, before streets and machinery, is in and of itself quite extraordinary.  It's a testament to faith and courage.

Well, our faith and courage were sorely tested today!  There has been a small road through the mountains that takes the brave to the highest peaks and then down again to Montevergine.  In years past this road has been said to be impassable, but this year we were told that the road was open and except for a few areas of potholes, we would be fine.  So, this morning Mike and I decided to make a day of it, taking the scenic route through the mountains and on down to the Sanctuary.  A few potholes indeed!


Once we got past the Mafariello state park things started to deteriorate quite quickly.  Much of the road was washed out in places, falling rocks littered the paved areas, and craters filled with water were to be dodged very gingerly.  There were places where there was nothing but air between us and a very precipitous drop.  Other spots were blocked with falling branches.

In one area, we had to stop because of a big branch covering our lane.  Facing the opposite direction, a car was parked, making it impossible for us to pass.  I hopped out and pulled the branch out of the way while Mike maneuvered by the parked car.  A few meters ahead, a bigger branch was covering the entire road.  I tugged and pulled, eventually managing to clear enough space for our car to go by.  That was when Mike hollered for me to get back in the car immediately.  It had dawned on him that this was a perfect set up for an attack of some sort.  We were indeed hemmed in by the parked car and the branches and had someone wanted to rob us (or worse) we would have been sitting ducks.  I hopped back in the car and we were on our way, but the thought of what might have awaited us put me on edge.

We continued our way up the road, never going beyond 5 miles per hour, dodging obstacles and keeping our eyes peeled for crossing deer.  Of course it wasn't all stressful.  There were moments of incredible beauty, such as the surprise plain that met us right at the summit.  We rounded a curve and there was a beautiful stretch of flat land, acres and acres of it, with green grass interspersed with a carpet of yellow flowers, buttercups and dandelions, and red poppies. It was spectacular!  There was a little pond on one side of the plain and bike trails crossed throughout.  Just lovely.

We soldiered on, finally making it down the other side of the mountain and into the Sanctuary area.  It was as lovely as usual, definitely worth the trip.  We did decide to take the main roads home however!  One off-road adventure is enough for any day!

April is the Cruelest Month?

They say that April is the cruelest month.  Is it the sudden showers?  The temperatures that can vary by 20 degrees from day to day?  The snow/hail/thunder storms that ruin fruit blossoms and flowers?  Perhaps all of the above.  But this year in Cervinara, May has shown herself to be a pretty nasty lady. 

In the week that we have been here, everyone has raved about the amazing April they had.  Warm, sunny, consistently beautiful days.  They put away their winter sweaters and were out and about in summer garb.  May, on the other hand, has been nothing but ugly.  It's cold.  It has rained every day since we've been here, often just enough sprinkles in the afternoon to ruin the clothes drying on the line, other times like today it's been a consistent downpour. 

Today was market day and when we got there at 10:00, the vendors were already packing up to go.  No one wanted to stroll through the bancarelle today!  One poor lady was heading under an awning when the water that had accumulated on top decided to let loose.  That was quite a spontaneous shower!  We dodged the puddles, bought our requisite clams and olives, as well as some more flowers to pot and we headed home.

We've tried to do some beautifying of the old house this week, spending way too much at our local greenhouse and now at the market, putting pots of plants around the courtyard and on the stairs.  For years we have had pots of perennials that survived all sorts of bad weather, but last summer's drought followed by this winter's extreme cold has destroyed most of the plants and several of our trees.  The lemon tree will be pruned back to almost nothing this fall as there are only a few sprouts showing on it's bare skeleton.  The mandarin tree is denuded of any foliage.  And all the potted plants are gone, so this is our attempt to repopulate the flora of our old house. 

I'm not sure how well they are going to thrive in this weather.  At least we won't be messing around with watering anything for quite some time!  In the meantime, we are renaming May as the cruelest month and are hoping for some respite soon.  Of course it won't be long until we will be cursing the sun and the heat....and blaming Mother Nature for her indifference to our comfort.  It's always something! 

If Music Be the Food of Love....

People often ask what there is to do in Cervinara.  Aren't you bored?  What is the cultural life like there.  As with any small town, there are certainly moments of inactivity, days where the highlight is the passing of the fruit and vegetable truck or the cheese man.  But there are also moments of such beauty and richness, it seems impossible that they are happening in this small hill town.

We have been here for five days now, several of which have been spent tracking down our errant luggage, a situation which has fortunately been resolved.  So last night, when our neighbor invited me to join her at a concert at our small local church, I was happy to tag along. 

To be perfectly frank, I wasn't expecting a lot.  I knew that there would be some students from the local high school that specializes in music, some of their teachers, and some local talent.  And as is so typical here, the 7:00 pm start time was delayed by an hour to accommodate late arrivals and logistical issues.  But when the orchestra played the first notes of a Rossini overture, I and the rest of the audience were spellbound.  We were in for 90 minutes of spectacular music, both orchestral and vocal. 

The acoustics in our church allowed the voices and strings to fill every corner of the edifice.  The enthusiasm of both spectators and performers was electric.  The absolute beauty that permeated the space gave me "brividi", that absolute pleasure that comes from hearing a beautiful piece of music performed flawlessly and passionately.  The ninety minutes flew by and we were ready for more. 
After amazing renditions of Vissi d'Arte, E Lucevan le Stelle, Nessun Dorma, and Si, Mi chiamano Mimi, the audience begged for more.  So tenor and soprano came out together to finish the evening with a rousing version of Libiamo!  Let's Drink!

This wonderful program is part of the Festival di Maggio, a May festival that publicizes and presents the gifted students, teachers, and performers of this little village.  I've seen my share of great performances, including Pavarotti twice and many operas at the Met, but I swear that our local musicians in our local church provided a more memorable and moving performance than any of the others.  The intimacy of the setting, the fact that we were no more than 10 feet from the singers, that the orchestra was squeezed onto the altar...these all contributed to the magic of the evening.

There are more concerts coming up; a wind quintet on Monday, a string quartet on Tuesday, and student recitals on Thursday are all on the calendar.  I look forward to another week of tidying, planting, and shopping....and more fantastic music, so.....play on!