tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40812029086382438162024-02-19T05:59:31.167+01:00My Life in a Small Italian Town: CervinaraWhat is it like to go from the frenetic life of an American high school teacher to a life in a small Italian town? This blog shares some of my thoughts and reflections on this major lifestyle change.dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.comBlogger99125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-74866708717067954142022-08-20T21:33:00.000+02:002022-08-20T21:33:43.229+02:00Welcome back!<p> Well, it's been a crazy ride these past few years! We are finally back in Cervinara after three years of uncertainty about what was happening around the world. While many things have changed, some things have remained the same, and for the past three weeks we have been trying to get a handle on just what life is going to be like going forward here.</p><p>We have spent these weeks getting reacquainted with our old compound, remembering old issues and discovering new ones daily! We have found leaky faucets, a broken, rotted door, overgrown yard and trees, crumbling of some of the stucco that has weakened over the years, as well chipping paint and just plain cosmetic issues that need to be addressed. We have also rediscovered the sanctity of the August vacation, which makes it nearly impossible to find tradespeople to come give estimates or even open stores where we can get supplies.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs0jG9iaogEbblcg-oWQYaUS1ja1lR04PUgCMFlLaabzKqakQqeX96FcBmI5W8P-68eglxainBbk__ZDuo3KAnRVuNH2S_Ob03XGKsUNLMta06WnevJha_XG8vmg-xxelZrFcux_s1hYGqrYKQbVbThh-O3Wb70ETkk2EpVzQdKajfp6FAODPyPyHaVw/s4032/IMG_5547.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs0jG9iaogEbblcg-oWQYaUS1ja1lR04PUgCMFlLaabzKqakQqeX96FcBmI5W8P-68eglxainBbk__ZDuo3KAnRVuNH2S_Ob03XGKsUNLMta06WnevJha_XG8vmg-xxelZrFcux_s1hYGqrYKQbVbThh-O3Wb70ETkk2EpVzQdKajfp6FAODPyPyHaVw/s320/IMG_5547.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdLTP52zsiQaDLpEFpGPAcPRCp0l5xafFg3vRrCLt0FrfiOa_D3PJW2-arJphzSaoN-9IIOeqPv3X1N28AjimrzL5CeZYcPYcKL0_cft2NpuObKvoXsN9CXmumFyUIbGIqAIdLHfqkom3RYhqaRin0oHNgxLaRt_A3ru4oSG_l_WqAUUzf2T6InnsYKg/s4032/IMG_5555.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdLTP52zsiQaDLpEFpGPAcPRCp0l5xafFg3vRrCLt0FrfiOa_D3PJW2-arJphzSaoN-9IIOeqPv3X1N28AjimrzL5CeZYcPYcKL0_cft2NpuObKvoXsN9CXmumFyUIbGIqAIdLHfqkom3RYhqaRin0oHNgxLaRt_A3ru4oSG_l_WqAUUzf2T6InnsYKg/s320/IMG_5555.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1ks4cWQ00rNDyzTvqyoaoGem9wBy8x0TWTbjN_fpSQYJkOR5EgUj9kmZ_fk4iy1iBX1CUp3RESzg_Wy81gyksI0RaAg46881kt2Gmz2iqGudg1KjU4a5ppl8nfSF93ek05jAZonmLtFMz4mbWEBqpbcm6zeywEciO7nSiAlsoMN27jP95U83IkkvRA/s4032/IMG_5559.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1ks4cWQ00rNDyzTvqyoaoGem9wBy8x0TWTbjN_fpSQYJkOR5EgUj9kmZ_fk4iy1iBX1CUp3RESzg_Wy81gyksI0RaAg46881kt2Gmz2iqGudg1KjU4a5ppl8nfSF93ek05jAZonmLtFMz4mbWEBqpbcm6zeywEciO7nSiAlsoMN27jP95U83IkkvRA/s320/IMG_5559.HEIC" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>We have also been getting reacquainted with neighbors and friends while missing those who are no longer with us. We miss our courtyard friends who came down from Rome for a quick visit to check on their home and touch base with us. Our daily conversations, recipe exchanges, and gossip sessions had been an integral part of our days here and they are sorely missed. We no longer see our centenarian neighbor Giovanina who amazed us with her energy and strength as she climbed her outdoor stairs many times over the course of a day, who cooked for herself and even tended a small garden patch. She is well but is living with her daughter as her cataracts have made independent living impossible for her. We still see our dear friend Bertuccio, the hardest working person I have ever met. Every day he was out in his garden, tending to the fruit trees and grape vines, harvesting his potatoes and tomatoes, chopping fire wood and using his axe to handcraft tool handles. He's had some health issues and is frailer than I've ever seen him, but he's still out and about, keeping an eye on all his projects and keeping the rest of us on our toes!</p><p>Some businesses did not survive the shutdown while others not only survived but have thrived. The Castello neighborhood is booming with new businesses, housing improvements, and a new appreciation for the mountains and all their gifts. The area has changed from a dying, barren spot to one with bars, restaurants, an acclaimed pastry shop, and birreria. It's hopping day and night! </p><p>The piazza across from the church is also a welcome improvement, with a small playground, a drinking fountain, and our iron wolf that scares but intrigues all the little ones. It was finally finished after years of planning and false starts, and now it is a focal part of the community.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7PCykeN05NvjvmbvJVyQMB2PFAzyWosxdphce1yaeX9Pr0I4nohKBp9YHgEtVRTaZ1zMvOhn3QDgNrqMMQGfLPJ6MH7lFvZfT_AJq2iqLwwB6ItbECaLIvvxmHScAQ7visnYlqfiKbtRT7U1KmjCAC9G5FJGM6LSvDFF64_etIAxFJooI1B4FEwQwA/s4032/IMG_5502.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7PCykeN05NvjvmbvJVyQMB2PFAzyWosxdphce1yaeX9Pr0I4nohKBp9YHgEtVRTaZ1zMvOhn3QDgNrqMMQGfLPJ6MH7lFvZfT_AJq2iqLwwB6ItbECaLIvvxmHScAQ7visnYlqfiKbtRT7U1KmjCAC9G5FJGM6LSvDFF64_etIAxFJooI1B4FEwQwA/s320/IMG_5502.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-MrrjBx46w1MwoZkW7fJQ3ambEcWim2GID-mVrG1NBPh45RQ2gdivE-aMUTpZzr_MQMpH_vKBQFVInhdnB16yrt6SIFD8RfqFT5NeSw9K702We4ctSjiINwoiYCfdoIsvHzAEPYQkfQksh9AjdIQY_22vbL-wLTT0fl2yIhPfvn9T2zdN5a-VNQrbg/s4032/IMG_5508.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-MrrjBx46w1MwoZkW7fJQ3ambEcWim2GID-mVrG1NBPh45RQ2gdivE-aMUTpZzr_MQMpH_vKBQFVInhdnB16yrt6SIFD8RfqFT5NeSw9K702We4ctSjiINwoiYCfdoIsvHzAEPYQkfQksh9AjdIQY_22vbL-wLTT0fl2yIhPfvn9T2zdN5a-VNQrbg/s320/IMG_5508.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFmxNgD6TJqWU0qH_KFVyb_C5gPlliLu8ggr_4vCkbZF86fvulkp8dDVuWjsNbKRUr1eLNXu5DnAKSWTy6adqurb3WiS2J39-WGVaXPYsILeORjxSluVYjLE9lKsOYJ9LoSNO-iPIVnxnHjzM4PNeHqrSbMNxGGpI7h93rPcOtn_Gi65Dl7q8hvCEzRQ/s4032/IMG_5505.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFmxNgD6TJqWU0qH_KFVyb_C5gPlliLu8ggr_4vCkbZF86fvulkp8dDVuWjsNbKRUr1eLNXu5DnAKSWTy6adqurb3WiS2J39-WGVaXPYsILeORjxSluVYjLE9lKsOYJ9LoSNO-iPIVnxnHjzM4PNeHqrSbMNxGGpI7h93rPcOtn_Gi65Dl7q8hvCEzRQ/s320/IMG_5505.HEIC" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>We finally took a break last night to head up to one of the restaurants that have been part of the renaissance of the neighborhood. Three years ago it was a relatively new establishment and we enjoyed some great food there, so we decided it was time to treat ourselves to a night out. La Loggia is thriving and it was full of people enjoying the food, the traditional décor, and the convivial atmosphere. While the food was a little bit salty for our taste, we had some really nice antipasti, a big bowl of pasta e patate, and grilled little lamb chops with salad. I was stuffed by the end of the night and we fairly rolled down the hill to home. </p><p>So now we are just about ready to start our real vacation. We will be on the road for the next three weeks, exploring some new parts of Italy, doing a train tour through Switzerland, exploring the Burgundy region of France, and finally heading to an agriturismo in Alba for some downtime before heading back to Cervinara. We are looking forward to learning, seeing and tasting new things and new experiences. I think we've earned it!</p><p><br /></p>dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-35776610199464721112019-09-13T15:09:00.000+02:002019-09-13T15:09:08.194+02:00CommunityMany years ago when I was still an active language teacher, we had our first exchange between Bristol Central High School and the Lycee Jean Monnet in France. The chaperoning teachers stayed with me while the students were housed with their American peers. The whole point was not only to practice language skills, but also to experience what everyday life is like for families in another country, to become for a short time a member of the community. <br />
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The Sunday after the French students arrived, my neighborhood volunteer fire department was holding their annual pancake breakfast fundraiser. What better way for my French colleagues to see what small town Connecticut was like? So we headed out around 9 am and walked to the firehouse where friends and neighbors, young and old, were involved in selling tickets, offering door prize chances, cooking, serving, and cleaning up. We were enjoying our blueberry pancakes and sausages when suddenly, Josie, my dear friend and colleague, started to cry. Not sobs, just quiet tears that gave me pause. What was wrong? In her most endearing way, she explained that she was just so moved seeing a community come together to work for the good of everyone. She seemed to feel that her small town in France was not capable of showing such unity (an opinion with which I disagree, having spent many weeks in that same small French town), and that seeing the different generations and races working together was inspiring and she was moved to tears. It was the sense of community that she was experiencing and that caused such emotions.<br />
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Last night, in the neighborhood of Pantanari, I had a similar experience. In years past, Pantanari has been on my walking route. About a kilometer down our steep hill brings us to the frazione of Pantanari, one that has had problems similar to those of us in Ioffredo and Castello. There has been repeated flooding and many parts of the neighborhood are at risk when it rains heavily. I had always noticed a ruin of a church, Santa Maria di Monte Vergine, but never really gave it much thought. This year I hadn't walked that route; it has been so hot that the idea of a challenging, hilly walk was just too offputting, so I wasn't aware of the repair works that had been going on. But work was indeed happening, volunteers putting in their time and money to restore the church, and last night was the celebration of its reconsecration.<br />
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There has been a church on this site since 1370, when it was first documented in church writings. The original church and many subsequent iterations had been destroyed, by fire, flood, earthquake, and time. The church that stands there now dates from the early 1700's. It's a tiny church, able to hold maybe 100 people, with an impressive wood beamed ceiling, some remnants of early frescoes, and a beautiful altar painting that dates from the 1770s. <br />
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The reconsecration of a church is a momentous occasion, and one that was looked forward to for months by the people of Pantanari. At 7:00 pm, the ubiquitous marching band struck up its first notes. They were followed by the procession of priests, deacons, altar servers, and finally, the archbishop of Benevento who paraded from the sacristy to the piazzetta in front of the church. Don Antonio Raviele, a distant cousin, acted as MC for the evening. I have very fond memories of Don Antonio. In 1982, he baptised my daughter Marta, the first time he had performed that sacrament. I remember a handsome, tall, slender young man with a thick head of jet black hair. Now 37 years later, he is still a handsome man although quite a bit heavier in the middle and lighter on top. His gray hair is very thin and he does fill out his priestly robes more than in 1982! He has a soft, soothing voice and he explained all the different steps that the Archbishop had to perform to allow this church to reopen.<br />
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There were chairs set up in the piazzetta and by the time the process began they were all taken. Tables were set up on the other side of the piazza, waiting for the refreshments to be served after. Balloons and banners festooned the whole area and there was a spot on the front of the church where a simulcast was being shown for those who couldn't fit inside the church. It was small town Italy at its best, everyone coming together to celebrate the years of work to repair the church and the realization of the dream of so many.<br />
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First the Archbishop blessed the water, then finally unlocked to doors to the church. At the altar, he put on a special "apron" and then proceeded to anoint the altar with holy oil., massaging the oil into the marble altar top, making sure every spot was covered. Then there was the igniting of the incense so the interior of the church could be purified, the anointing of the various crosses with the oil, and many other steps. Don Antonio explained the meaning behind each ritual and clarified what was happening. Whether one is religious or not, it really doesn't matter. The devotion of the people who were witnessing and participating in the ritual was moving.<br />
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I sat towards the rear of the piazzetta and had a very good view of the whole process. As night fell, a cool breeze wafted through the crowd and made me glad that I had worn a long sleeved sweater. Then the moon rose over the craggy heights of Mount Pizzone and shone down on us all. It was a transcendental feeling with the breezes, the moon, the music, and the beautiful church coming back to life.<br />
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At that moment, I felt like my friend Josie. I was moved to tears, not because of a religious devotion but because of the beauty of a community coming together to celebrate the completion of a common goal. In Italy today, community seems to be in short supply. It's a very divided country, not unlike my own. But at moments like this, we can see the unity that can come about when everyone works for that common goal. I feel blessed to have been able to experience these moments, if only as a spectator. Community is what we must embrace. dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-48050289557319038422019-08-23T10:46:00.000+02:002019-08-23T10:46:45.434+02:00The BelvedereA few years ago I wrote a blog post entitled "Why Italy Makes Me Cry". It was about how, when blessed with such natural and man made beauty, the people of Italy all too often not only ignore it but deface it. I found it sad that while the interior of every home I have ever entered has been spotlessly and meticulously clean, the outside areas and public buildings are littered with garbage and graffiti. If only a small fraction of the attention that is paid to their private spaces were dedicated to the public spaces, Italy could truly be a remarkably beautiful country. Sadly, I see very little progress in that regard.<br />
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As we exit the Nazionale (the main artery that takes all traffic into the Valle Caudine), the off ramp is strewn with plastic bags tossed recklessly from passing cars. Discarded tires, mattresses, and all manner of litter adorn the route to Cervinara. I don't know how much of it is from local traffic and how much is from those just passing through....it just indicates a lack of civic responsibility on a national level. Not all areas of the country are as egregiously littered as the region of Campania, but graffiti abounds everywhere and it is clear that there is much progress to be made regarding respect for the environment.<br />
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So yesterday as we were planning a small excursion, I decided it was time to finally go up to the Belvedere of Nazareth. I had seen signs for this spot for years but we never bothered to follow through and scope it out. But we had an open day with nothing on the agenda, and it was beautifully clear and relatively cool, so we headed up into the hills. Coppola is not the area we usually climb. It's another mountain that leads out of Cervinara and we had never gone up in that direction. We followed the signs until, as is typical, there were no more. But knowing that we had to go up, we followed a relatively steep road that became full of the twists and turns that we have come to expect. After five or six hairpin turns, there it was, and it indeed was a Belvedere (beautiful view).<br />
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There was a large statue of Christ set on a rock pedestal. Arms upstretched, he looks down on the valley below as if giving a benediction. Carved into the surrounding rocky outcroppings are sculptures and inscriptions, all reflecting the beauty of the area. <br />
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Unfortunately, along with the beautiful view came the disappointing lack of care and respect that this spot should be provided. The bench meant to allow a restful place for contemplation was in disrepair, but I could handle that. It's a wooden bench exposed to the elements and, while in need of some sprucing up, it still was able to do its job. But the litter and dirt surrounding the viewing area was sickening. Empty cigarette packs, cigarette butts, paper and general detritus, and of course the ubiquitous used condom were all present. Nothing huge, nothing that couldn't have been easily brought home in one's car (well except maybe the condom!), but garbage that was just carelessly tossed away without a thought for those who would follow, to say nothing of a general respect for the purpose of the area. <br />
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Coincidentally, my friend Francesco, who happens to be one of the biggest supporters of Cervinara and its beauty, also happened to go to the Belvedere yesterday. He posted pictures of the area showing the sad state it is in and expressed his rage at how thoughtless his fellow residents were. He routinely comes up here to clean the area but it continues to be abused and disrespected. I didn't take pictures of the trash, preferring to remember it as the lovely area it was intended to be. But the images remain in my head, the anger remains in my heart, and a lack of hope for what this country will become remains embedded in my soul. Italy can do better. We can all do better. It's not that hard. So just do it!dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-62637063379852945272019-08-14T16:46:00.001+02:002019-08-14T17:15:32.902+02:00A Little Night Music<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Cervinara is a small town and oftentimes it seems that there's not a lot to do here. Sometimes that's true! But in August, there is l'imbarazzo della scelta for fans of festivals and music. And we are especially lucky when those events are held in our lovely Piazza Elena, where the fountain and plane trees and the Palazzo Marchesale provide a lovely and quaint backdrop for these public events.<br />
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During one of our first stops upon arriving in town at the end of July we picked up a little pamphlet with a listing of all the events scheduled for the month of August. Cervinara Sotto le Stelle (Cervinara Under the Stars) is the slate of performances and processions that await the vacationer to our little town during August. There is something for everyone....classical music, popular cover bands, religious processions, theatrical performances, and even operas and marching bands!<br />
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My first show this year was a band from Taranto, a port city in Puglia. Every town of any size has a number of brass bands that are hired for everything from functions of public entertainment to funeral marches to wedding celebrations and more. This band was quite good and the audience enjoyed a selection of works from Rigoletto by Giuseppe Verdi. Everyone knows La Donna E Mobile and the Rigoletto sextet, but one of my favorites is Questa o Quella, where the Duke who sang about how women are fickle goes on to sing This One or That One, it really doesn't matter, because all women are essentially the same. Shame on him!<br />
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Something that takes some getting used to is the ambient noise that accompanies any outdoor performance. We've gone many times to Tanglewood where even in that casual atmosphere there is a general quiet in the audience and a respect for the performers. But here, children run free through the piazza, waving their laser swords and blowing bubbles from their electronic bubblers, complete with music and flashing lights! The occasional dog wanders through the seats. People get up to smoke and chat with friends, and conversations continue throughout. While some in the audience try to give the evil eye to the worst noise-makers, it's generally considered the norm to have these distractions. I've gotten used to it, as have the musicians apparently, because they continued through their repertoire without batting an eye. And, even though they are not actively listening to the music, I have to believe that it is sinking in to the little folks who are running around and that little by little they are developing an appreciation for the music of their heritage. This was evident by the reaction of one little fellow who, at no more than 18 months or so, kept rushing the stage to get closer to the musicians and who did his darling little dances in time to the music that charmed us all. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlMNZxOwGdP9JGfw-_mMThmgOFqHun_BimffL7WZON0pCU_fbou7XGLWBNG3uTYKjuEm2FJAzlHurNWBh4s_oPa9fkd5PCoBPME5UC6NaZd1zElm48EzXxBFExXXp0GPkMVpa0xcpV9Pu/s1600/IMG_0774.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlMNZxOwGdP9JGfw-_mMThmgOFqHun_BimffL7WZON0pCU_fbou7XGLWBNG3uTYKjuEm2FJAzlHurNWBh4s_oPa9fkd5PCoBPME5UC6NaZd1zElm48EzXxBFExXXp0GPkMVpa0xcpV9Pu/s320/IMG_0774.HEIC" width="320" /></a><br />
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There have been other performances and we look forward to participating in others, along with the religious processions that accompany the national holiday of Ferragosto. August 15 is a national day of rest, fun, picnics, and music. While this is the Feast of the Ascension and an important day in the Catholic church it is more often now an opportunity for families to get together for a "grigliata", for a game of soccer in piazza, or for an evening of music. Cervinara Sotto Le Stelle is a festival for the whole month and we are lucky to be able to participate!dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-18371783664333203882019-07-31T17:37:00.001+02:002019-07-31T17:37:45.248+02:00WednesdayHappy Wednesday from Cervinara!<br />
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Anyone who has been here for a visit or who knows us even slightly, knows that Wednesday is market day. We love our little market and have made a weekly pilgrimage to pick up our necessities and to "window shop" at all the stands. A couple of years ago I wrote a post about an indiscretion we committed, when we opted to make a purchase from a different vendor than our usual one. We were duly chastised and given a slightly chilly reception for a couple of weeks until all was forgiven.<br />
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Today was our first day back and we were so happy to see our regular clam guy, our regular olive guy, and our regular "any gadget you may need" guy. I particularly like the olive fellow. He greets us with fist bumps, he gives us tastes of all his olives (he knows our tastes and is usually spot on with his recommendations), and he's always ready to throw in a few more items just because he's that kind of guy. It was no different today, even though we've been away for almost a year. It's always a happy reunion when we get our first taste of those fat, green olives!<br />
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The fish vendor has a new young man handling his customers. He wasn't aware that we are weekly regulars and he actually had to ask us what we wanted. Our usual fellow would start bagging our clams as soon as he saw us, and he too would throw in a few extras because of our loyalty. We'll break this young giovanotto in! <br />
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We have found a new fruit/vegetable vendor, and I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship. This woman is funny and pushy, she laughs at how I speak Italian with an accent, and has the best produce around. Tiny eggplants, salad tomatoes with just the right amount of green on them, grapes, peaches, melon....you name it, she has it. It's like shopping with the Italian version of Bette Midler with the added bonus of some really good products. Plus she's right across from olive man so it's like one stop shopping!<br />
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If Wednesday is market day, it's also spaghetti with vongole day. I think this is why we come back here every year and stay for as long as we do. Nothing beats the tiny clams that cook up quickly in some garlic scented olive oil, some white wine, and a hearty sprinkle of peperoncino. The clams are small and sweet and taste of nothing but sun and sea. I've tried more times than I can count to reproduce this perfectly simple dish at home, and it's pointless. It's not that we don't have good clams in Connecticut. After all we're not an hour from the shore. But the big Quahogs that we have are tougher, and just don't have the special flavor of our little verace clams here. I officially invite anyone who knocks on our door on a Wednesday to join us for lunch. You won't regret it!<br />
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Shopping at the market is a remnant of the past here in Italy. There's really no need for it to exist anymore, as shopping malls and big super markets have popped up everywhere. But we cling to this bit of tradition, just as we do with our itinerant vendors who drive their trucks laden with merchandise up into the hills here to serve anyone who isn't able to get down to the stores. The relationships we have here will never be replaced by someone who mindlessly scans our items at the Lidl. We become part of the community when we support our local vendors and then we become friends rather than just customers. I don't know how long these traditions will continue, but I hope it's as long as we continue to come to our beloved Cervinara. <br />
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Buon appetito!dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-86974386143925692342019-07-27T11:20:00.001+02:002019-07-27T11:20:41.931+02:00HiccupsWell we are back in the hills of Cervinara, sweating through a big heatwave. They say it should break soon, and personally I can't wait. I'm sitting in our local bar where air conditioning is non-existent, and I feel like I need to put an umbrella over my computer to protect it from the sweat that is raining off my face! Fortunately, the house is always pretty comfortable, and a fan keeps the air moving. By evening, we are always able to relax and enjoy a bit of company in the shade of the house.<br />
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Our trip was basically uneventful, and that is all we can hope for now. When we boarded our plane in Bradley Airport we were dismayed to find that we were directly across from the loo, against a wall so there was not even a millimeter of space to recline. Yikes! Fortunately I have a resourceful husband who went in search of empty seats and found a whole row available. We scooted our butts up there real quick before anyone else scoped it out. Made for a very comfortable flight.<br />
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But what about hiccups? This first came to mind as we were waiting to board our Aer Lingus flight in Bradley. I was working a crossword puzzle when I heard what sounded like the worst hiccups ever, the kind of body wracking spasms that are painful. I looked up and saw a big man with shaved head, gauges in his ears, and sleeves of tattoos sobbing in the arms of a young woman. These were the sobs of such sorrow that my heart immediately broke for this young fellow. He was someone whom I might have wanted to avoid if I met him walking down the street, and yet here I just wanted to reach out to him to offer him whatever solace I could. I can only imagine the loss he was feeling and what was awaiting him at his destination. I was brought up short at the prejudice that I might have felt and was reminded that even under the most hardened of appearances we are all just one step away from painful losses. <br />
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As we were walking through Dublin airport to get to our connecting flight, we passed a woman sitting on the floor in front of an emergency call box. The contents of her purse were strewn around her and I could see some diabetes tools among them. She was with her husband so I knew she would be taken care of, but as someone who recently had a health "hiccup" in an airport, one that caused us to miss our flight and to spend a day in the ER, I felt for her. As we age I find myself thinking more of how we are all susceptible to unexpected health issues and I am grateful for every trip that we are able to get through without complications!<br />
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We arrived in Naples at Capodichino airport and then....we sat. It took a good 20 minutes for the stairs to arrive so we could disembark. We finally got on the bus transport to the terminal, went through passport control and headed to the baggage pick up area where.....we waited, and waited, and waited some more. It was very crowded in the room and yet strangely silent. None of the carrousels were working. Finally our "nastro" started rolling and about 30-40 suitcases came through, including one of ours. And then it stopped, and we waited, and waited, and waited some more. Again, everything was idle. After half an hour things got rolling again and we were able to gather our last bag and head out. <br />
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Italy has a charming tradition called "lo sciopero a singhiozzo" or a hiccup strike. They work, but only part of the time. Of every hour, maybe 30 minutes is spent on strike. It's not really enough to bring things to a screeching halt, just enough to drive you crazy! Fortunately for us, that was the last hiccup of the day and everything else went smoothly. But thinking about the "hiccups" that I witnessed during this latest trip, I had to admit that ours was pretty minor. We weren't suffering the loss of a loved one, nor were we having a medical emergency. We were inconvenienced, and that is the kind of hiccup I can handle. <br />
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Health and happiness to all, my friends. dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-53517785465520330442018-08-19T12:31:00.000+02:002018-08-19T12:31:38.579+02:00Local Treats 3 La Loggia!Boy are we lucky!<br />
Our neighborhood of Ioffredo/Castello has been seeing some nice growth lately. A couple of years ago a wonderful pasticceria opened, way up at the top of the Castello frazione. That was followed by a small brewery and a chocolate producer. But what we discovered the other night really made us sing!<br />
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I knew that a restaurant had opened up, a place that specialized in grilled meats, but we hadn't had the chance to visit it and frankly, I was a bit skeptical about what to expect. But the other night our neighbors went and raved about it, so we decided to give it a try. Believe me, it was a success!<br />
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I walked up the night before our planned dinner to make a reservation. I was greeted so warmly by the entire staff! Immediately one of the partners took me around to show me the work that they had done, how the entire structure had been renovated in a way that reflected and respected the history of the area. They showed me the upstairs rooms where 50-60 diners could be accommodated, both inside and outside. They showed me the room where they have created a "seasoning" vault, where salumi and cheeses are allowed to age. They showed me the area that they have planned to open a small boutique that will highlight local products and wines. And, best of all, they showed me the B&B that will be opening in October, where four rooms with baths have been prepared and where guests will be able to lose themselves in time, escaping the noise and confusion of the city for the peace and charm of our historic neighborhood.<br />
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Our dinner the following evening was one to be remembered. The menu offered a rich variety of antipasti to start off, complete with a tagliera of prosciutto and cheeses of the highest quality, and then at least 7 other tastings....meatballs, bruschetta, mixed grain salad, bits of stewed meat, bits of "organs" that Americans might throw away, and bits of veggies that were very tasty. After this, who could eat any more? Well, we managed to!<br />
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Two first courses are prepared each evening. We had a choice of pasta and potatoes or tagliatelle with caccio e peppe. We knew we couldn't do justice to a full plate of pasta so we were going to do without, until our server suggested just a small portion to be shared by the table. Perfect! Out came a lovely little crock with ladle, with which we scooped out a nice little taste of pasta e patate, just enough to let us appreciate the simplicity of this peasant dish made with top quality products.<br />
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Finally came our tagliata....grilled steaks sliced into manageable strips atop a bed of arugula and accompanied by a small salad and a platter of grilled potatoes. The meat was tender and well cooked, mine cooked rare as requested, the others cooked medium. What we were unable to finish was packed up and carried home, to be enjoyed the next day.<br />
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I can't tell you how happy we are to have a reasonably priced fine dining establishment within walking distance of our home. Judging from the numbers of clients we saw coming in during our dinner, we are not the only ones to appreciate the efforts of the Iuliano family. They have added an important piece to the rebirth of Castello, bringing life and new visitors to our beautiful and quaint neighborhood. All I can say is, we will be back, and we'll be bringing friends!<br />
<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-41985115974227023562018-07-10T15:12:00.000+02:002018-07-10T15:12:19.134+02:00Local Treats part 2When you have a 2 1/2 year old and a 5 year old, you have to keep them busy. Here in Cervinara, there's not necessarily a lot for a couple of little boys to do, once you've gone to the mercato and visited the baker. The arrival of the fruttivendolo is always a highlight of each morning, and there is always kiting around the cortile on the Spiderman bike and the little pedal tractor. But these boys need outings, they need to see new things, they need a change of scenery. So....we pile them into the car and go in search of fun things to do.<br />
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We in Connecticut are spoiled. Within a ten mile radius, we have at least 7 children's museums, we have public libraries with amazing children's rooms, we have parks, ponds, and pools. Every day there is the opportunity to get outside and burn off some steam, or stay inside and explore science, wildlife, and different cultures. We are indeed lucky.<br />
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In Cervinara and the environs, there is very little dedicated to the youngsters so we have to be creative in the ways we can fill their days. First, the Villa Communale, that has a very nice children's playground, shaded pathways lined with fountains, and the best gelateria in the area. While we can walk down easily enough (maybe 1.5 miles) the trip back really needs to be made by car because it's all uphill. Pushing a stroller and holding hands with the older one is exhausting and more than this grandma can handle. But once in the park, the boys run around like crazy, check out all the climbing spots, and wear themselves out....only to get the sugar rush from the gelato that finishes off the visit.<br />
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There is also a pleasant pool complex in town. On sunny, warm days it's a haven for kids of all ages. Lots of local adolescents have summer subscriptions and show up every day to meet with their peers, strut their stuff, and take daring rides down the water slides. Our boys enjoyed the kiddy pool and, while not cheap at 8 euros a pop plus extra for umbrella and lounge rentals, it's a nice way to wear the boys out and get in some adult swim time as well.<br />
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In Airola, a town a few miles away, there is a nice little area called Il Giardino Segreto. It's part zoo, part botanical reserve, and part playground. The Sunday we went, they had hired a group of actors to act out various fairy tales in the corners of the gardens. Since the boys don't really understand Italian well enough to appreciate that, we went on our own through the paths and the various thematic gardens. It was good for a couple of hours of exploring, but very warm and the mosquitos made it a bit uncomfortable at times. <br />
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But even after being out of the classroom for nine years, the teacher in me still reigns supreme and I can never let a more "educational moment" pass by. We are only about 20 minutes from the big town of Benevento which is the home of some fantastic Roman ruins, so we took advantage of a nice sunny day to go wander through some history. Daniel was indifferent to most of it, until we came to the excavations of an ancient theater. He loved running freely up and down the ramps that were built on top of the "scavi", and gathering rocks to take home. But James was fascinated by a huge cistern that dominated the complex. He's been obsessed with his water barrel that we have rigged up to recapture rain water from our downspouts and was really quite impressed with the cistern that could provide water for thousands during the dry summer months.<br />
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But what has provided the most fun and interest this summer? The baby kitty who lives in the courtyard. The mamma and baby are naturally skittish of our two rambunctious boys, but we are winning them over with daily treats and warnings to the boys to be very quiet and patient with them. The boys don't sit down for long anywhere else, but when the kitties are in residence they will wait patiently for a visit. <br />
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No, we don't have a lot of organized activities for a couple of youngsters, but they are enjoying a summer of exploration, freedom, and nature that is just not available back in the States. They have learned to holler their greetings in Italian to the neighbors, they have learned how to buy bread, fruit and vegs from local vendors, they have learned about some "really old stuff", and they have learned that it's ok to live differently from what they are used to. And those are the best lessons of all.dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-35019586685257376302018-07-10T13:37:00.003+02:002018-07-10T13:37:52.307+02:00Local treatsOf the so many great things about living in Italy, one of the best is the opportunity to get to know a place in depth. We are fortunate enough to be in the middle of some wonderful sites, all the more wonderful because they are not widely known. No one would plan a trip specifically to visit our area, but those of us lucky enough to be here for the long term are able to see some interesting and picturesque spots, all within an easy drive from home. <br />
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First, the beautiful Sant'Agata dei Goti. Settled in the early 300s, it used to be called just Sant'Agata. Then it was conquered by the Goths and since then it has been called Saint Agatha of the Goths. There haven't been any Goths around for quite some time, but the name has stuck. This is not to be confused with the beautiful Sant'Agata di Puglia, which has welcomed us several times and which was the subject of one of our more harrowing driving experiences. I'm not sure who Sant'Agata was, but she has certainly inspired some beautiful towns!<br />
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Located about a half hour from Cervinara, the road to Sant'Agata dei Goti takes us through some lovely farmland and up and down beautiful hills. Driving into town requires crossing over a deep ravine on which the historic center is built. Amazing views! One of the best things about Sant'Agata is that it has parking. Lots of parking, within a few steps of the pedestrian city center! That's a much appreciated rarity here. Once inside the old walls, we can stroll through cobble stone streets, make leisurely visits through the many churches and the Duomo, and finally wend our way up to the walls that look out onto that ravine. We came here with our grandsons, two year old Daniel and five year old James. Walking along the ramparts, Daniel kept looking over the wall and yelling, "What a view! What a view!" It's embarrassing when your grandchildren pick up and expand upon your linguistic tics, but I guess he's heard me exclaim that same sentiment more than once!<br />
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There's a pretty little park at the top of the town, with a fountain/fish pond that fascinated the boys more than any of the old buildings. And there's a pretty café in a most pleasant spot with "what a view!" This little town deserves a visit and the best part is, it's easily accomplished in a couple of hours, just in time to enjoy an excellent lunch.<br />
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We needed something easy, kid friendly, and not too pricey, and our stop at the Antico Borgo filled the bill well. While not haute cuisine, the waitstaff was wonderful and included our hostess who immediately seated us in a quiet corner and brought the boys pages of cartoon characters and markers to color them in. When I asked that the boys be served ASAP, within five minutes their gnocchi and ravioli were on the table and they happily dug into their lunches. This is what I like so much about small restaurants in Italy....they really will try to accommodate you and the needs of their younger clients.<br />
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So, when in Cervinara, take advantage of what the Valley has to offer and make a visit to Sant'Agata dei Goti. You won't regret it!dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-2111126638808440792018-07-08T12:52:00.002+02:002018-07-08T12:52:32.073+02:00GoodbyesThere are so many ways to say goodbye in the Italian language. First, there's the ubiquitous "ciao", that has become a universal way of greeting and leaving friends and strangers alike. Then there are the "a" words. Arrivederci (until we see each other again), a venerdi (see you Friday), a presto (see you soon), a la prossima (until next time). They go on and on. <br />
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And then there's "addio". This is a hard one, because the essence of the word is one that indicates finality....we will see each other when we are with God. It's what lovers say when they break up, it's what emigrants must say when they are leaving their home country, and it's what we say to our loved ones who have gone on to their reward.This year, as in years past, we have had to say addio to loved ones. Our little corner of Cervinara has been hit by the loss of some of our most beloved members. <br />
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Three weeks ago, as we were leaving for a quick trip to the grocery store, we heard ambulance sirens coming up our hill. We didn't know its destination but we were worried. Half an hour later we returned to find a crowd gathered around our neighbor's house and we learned the sad news that Pasqualina had passed away. Pasqualina, a gem of a woman, tiny in stature but big in heart, who sat at her kitchen window and greeted everyone who came by, who rarely left her home because of her failing vision and her frail health, but a woman who opened her heart and her home to all, left a giant hole in our hearts with her passing. <br />
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Only a few days later we heard the news that our Don Giorgio, the priest who led the Church of San Nicola for over 50 years had died in a hospital in Avellino. We had noticed that the house where he lived across the street from us was closed up and that there was no sign of him or Teresa, his sister. Don Giorgio had taken ill while visiting his family and had been hospitalized for several weeks and eventually succumbed to his illness. The mass celebrating his life was packed, including the Bishop from Benevento who talked about this humble man who led a quiet life and set a good example for all in the parish. There were at least five priests in presence who had been introduced to the canonical life by Don Giorgio. And there were so many young people, including young men whom I remember being chastised for chatting during mass, crying at the loss of this good man. <br />
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Losing Don Giorgio has also meant losing his sister Teresa. She was as devoted to him as any sister could be and spent her entire adult life looking after his needs and attending to the needs of the church as well. It was she who showed me the trick of using a 10 lira coin instead of a euro to get access to the shopping carts at the Lidl supermarket. It was she who helped me get access to a great physical therapist when I was recovering from my fractured knee. It was she who could be counted on to squeeze four adult women in to her tiny Fiat 500 for a jaunt to the mall. She was a friend to all. She has gone to live with the rest of her family now, rather than stay in the empty house she shared with her brother. The loss of both of these anchors of our neighborhood is sorely felt.<br />
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As I write these words, I am on a train heading north to Milano. This is not a pleasure trip, and not one that we have looked forward to with anticipation. We are going to say "addio" to our cousin Rita, who lost her battle to leukemia on Friday. Rita was a tough woman, tiny in size but feisty and strong. She loved to travel and we spent some great times together visiting the great sites of the Northeast and Canada, and then the wonderful parklands out west in California, Nevada and Utah. We spent many weeks at her home in Puglia, reveling in the warmth of the sun and the warmth of her hospitality. Our times in Puglia were marked by great food, lots of exploring the natural beauty of the area, and late night marathon card games. How we will miss all of these!<br />
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Yes, "addio" is not a word we like to say, and yet it is an inevitable part of our lives. We have said "addio" too often this year, but we are strengthened by the memories of the loved ones who have moved on. You will all be missed. You are all still loved. dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-51051506280249892582018-05-29T16:20:00.002+02:002018-07-17T09:06:03.229+02:00Off The Road Again.....I have written before about our adventures on Italy's secondary roads. Well, here's another one!<br />
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We live in the foothills of the Appenines, the mountains that run like a backbone down the spine of Italy. Leaving Cervinara and heading east, we go directly into those mountains and the roads that we find can sometimes be challenging. The Sanctuary of Montevergine is a big draw in the area and it usually takes an hour or so to get there. We've been several times, admiring the church and sanctuary as well as the pretty ride to get there. How it was built more than 500 years ago, before streets and machinery, is in and of itself quite extraordinary. It's a testament to faith and courage.<br />
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Well, our faith and courage were sorely tested today! There has been a small road through the mountains that takes the brave to the highest peaks and then down again to Montevergine. In years past this road has been said to be impassable, but this year we were told that the road was open and except for a few areas of potholes, we would be fine. So, this morning Mike and I decided to make a day of it, taking the scenic route through the mountains and on down to the Sanctuary. A few potholes indeed!<br />
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Once we got past the Mafariello state park things started to deteriorate quite quickly. Much of the road was washed out in places, falling rocks littered the paved areas, and craters filled with water were to be dodged very gingerly. There were places where there was nothing but air between us and a very precipitous drop. Other spots were blocked with falling branches.<br />
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In one area, we had to stop because of a big branch covering our lane. Facing the opposite direction, a car was parked, making it impossible for us to pass. I hopped out and pulled the branch out of the way while Mike maneuvered by the parked car. A few meters ahead, a bigger branch was covering the entire road. I tugged and pulled, eventually managing to clear enough space for our car to go by. That was when Mike hollered for me to get back in the car immediately. It had dawned on him that this was a perfect set up for an attack of some sort. We were indeed hemmed in by the parked car and the branches and had someone wanted to rob us (or worse) we would have been sitting ducks. I hopped back in the car and we were on our way, but the thought of what might have awaited us put me on edge.<br />
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We continued our way up the road, never going beyond 5 miles per hour, dodging obstacles and keeping our eyes peeled for crossing deer. Of course it wasn't all stressful. There were moments of incredible beauty, such as the surprise plain that met us right at the summit. We rounded a curve and there was a beautiful stretch of flat land, acres and acres of it, with green grass interspersed with a carpet of yellow flowers, buttercups and dandelions, and red poppies. It was spectacular! There was a little pond on one side of the plain and bike trails crossed throughout. Just lovely.<br />
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We soldiered on, finally making it down the other side of the mountain and into the Sanctuary area. It was as lovely as usual, definitely worth the trip. We did decide to take the main roads home however! One off-road adventure is enough for any day! <br />
<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-44552482129419690482018-05-23T17:16:00.003+02:002018-05-23T17:16:49.429+02:00April is the Cruelest Month?They say that April is the cruelest month. Is it the sudden showers? The temperatures that can vary by 20 degrees from day to day? The snow/hail/thunder storms that ruin fruit blossoms and flowers? Perhaps all of the above. But this year in Cervinara, May has shown herself to be a pretty nasty lady. <br />
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In the week that we have been here, everyone has raved about the amazing April they had. Warm, sunny, consistently beautiful days. They put away their winter sweaters and were out and about in summer garb. May, on the other hand, has been nothing but ugly. It's cold. It has rained every day since we've been here, often just enough sprinkles in the afternoon to ruin the clothes drying on the line, other times like today it's been a consistent downpour. <br />
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Today was market day and when we got there at 10:00, the vendors were already packing up to go. No one wanted to stroll through the bancarelle today! One poor lady was heading under an awning when the water that had accumulated on top decided to let loose. That was quite a spontaneous shower! We dodged the puddles, bought our requisite clams and olives, as well as some more flowers to pot and we headed home.<br />
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We've tried to do some beautifying of the old house this week, spending way too much at our local greenhouse and now at the market, putting pots of plants around the courtyard and on the stairs. For years we have had pots of perennials that survived all sorts of bad weather, but last summer's drought followed by this winter's extreme cold has destroyed most of the plants and several of our trees. The lemon tree will be pruned back to almost nothing this fall as there are only a few sprouts showing on it's bare skeleton. The mandarin tree is denuded of any foliage. And all the potted plants are gone, so this is our attempt to repopulate the flora of our old house. <br />
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I'm not sure how well they are going to thrive in this weather. At least we won't be messing around with watering anything for quite some time! In the meantime, we are renaming May as the cruelest month and are hoping for some respite soon. Of course it won't be long until we will be cursing the sun and the heat....and blaming Mother Nature for her indifference to our comfort. It's always something! dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-4740611621392739392018-05-20T16:59:00.001+02:002018-05-20T16:59:17.337+02:00If Music Be the Food of Love....People often ask what there is to do in Cervinara. Aren't you bored? What is the cultural life like there. As with any small town, there are certainly moments of inactivity, days where the highlight is the passing of the fruit and vegetable truck or the cheese man. But there are also moments of such beauty and richness, it seems impossible that they are happening in this small hill town.<br />
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We have been here for five days now, several of which have been spent tracking down our errant luggage, a situation which has fortunately been resolved. So last night, when our neighbor invited me to join her at a concert at our small local church, I was happy to tag along. <br />
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To be perfectly frank, I wasn't expecting a lot. I knew that there would be some students from the local high school that specializes in music, some of their teachers, and some local talent. And as is so typical here, the 7:00 pm start time was delayed by an hour to accommodate late arrivals and logistical issues. But when the orchestra played the first notes of a Rossini overture, I and the rest of the audience were spellbound. We were in for 90 minutes of spectacular music, both orchestral and vocal. <br />
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The acoustics in our church allowed the voices and strings to fill every corner of the edifice. The enthusiasm of both spectators and performers was electric. The absolute beauty that permeated the space gave me "brividi", that absolute pleasure that comes from hearing a beautiful piece of music performed flawlessly and passionately. The ninety minutes flew by and we were ready for more. <br />After amazing renditions of Vissi d'Arte, E Lucevan le Stelle, Nessun Dorma, and Si, Mi chiamano Mimi, the audience begged for more. So tenor and soprano came out together to finish the evening with a rousing version of Libiamo! Let's Drink!<br />
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This wonderful program is part of the Festival di Maggio, a May festival that publicizes and presents the gifted students, teachers, and performers of this little village. I've seen my share of great performances, including Pavarotti twice and many operas at the Met, but I swear that our local musicians in our local church provided a more memorable and moving performance than any of the others. The intimacy of the setting, the fact that we were no more than 10 feet from the singers, that the orchestra was squeezed onto the altar...these all contributed to the magic of the evening.<br />
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There are more concerts coming up; a wind quintet on Monday, a string quartet on Tuesday, and student recitals on Thursday are all on the calendar. I look forward to another week of tidying, planting, and shopping....and more fantastic music, so.....play on!dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-40178710534003606842017-10-09T21:49:00.003+02:002017-10-09T21:49:55.563+02:00There's Gold in Them Thar Hills!It's been several years since Cervinara has seen a good chestnut harvest. Because of a variety of ills, including a Chinese worm and some bad weather, three years have gone by since there has been a good harvest. We were worried about this year as well because our area as well as most of the rest of Europe suffered under an incredibly hot and dry summer. Weeks of temperatures in the 100+ range and months that saw not a drop of rain had many worried that 2017 would be another washout Well, I can tell you first hand that those worries were unfounded!<br />
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Last weeks our cousins came down from Milan to check out their piece of the mountain. We enjoyed several days of good company, nice hikes and great food. Climbing up onto their property on a windy day, we were bombarded by dropping chestnuts, still in their spiny shells.<br />
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It's a tricky business, chestnut gathering. If the nuts haven't escaped from the "ricci" when they drop to the ground, they have to be released by heavily gloved hands. Then each nut must be examined for worms and mold before it can be added to the collection. Every brown morsel is like a little voice calling out "Pick me! Pick me!". It's impossible to walk by without scooping up as many as you can carry. And that's a problem, because as pleasant as it is hiking up to the groves, it's not so much fun when you're toting 40 or 50 lbs of chestnuts in your backpack! It always gives me newfound admiration for the women who for generations would hike up to the mountain, gather 100 lbs of chestnuts into their sheets, bundle them up and then tote them down the mountain....and not to a paved road where a truck would await but all the way back down to town, with that bundle balanced on their heads. Those were strong women!<br />
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There were lots of women up there when we were and believe me, it was clear what dilettantes we were! We strolled from spot to spot, looking for easy picking and mostly leaving the ricci behind. When we'd filled a backpack we headed back to the road for our ride home. But these women were there all day, filling bag after bag, hoisting them into the trucks or tractors that were awaiting, and even cooking the noon meal on the mountain.</div>
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There are huts and primitive lean-tos that have sheltered the mountain workers for generations. During rainy days the work doesn't stop and these structures provide some measure of protection from the elements. Cousin Umberto gathered up a nice pile of chestnuts, covered them with leaves and damp grass and lit them on fire. The damp greens created a nice stream of steam that cooked the chestnuts perfectly, right there on the mountain. In wetter weather this would be done in a hut like this.</div>
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It's fun to play at being a mountaineer, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to handle it on a regular basis. There's a saying that you shouldn't curse the farmer with your mouth full, and that goes for the gatherers of all the riches of the mountains. It's easy to criticize or be unappreciative of the laborers who put the food on our tables, but if we just tried doing their work day in and day out I think we would all change our tune.</div>
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There are more riches than just the chestnuts at this time of year. It's also the perfect time for mushroom hunting. While I spotted many, my companions were quick to point out that I only have an eye for the poisonous ones! It's a good thing I have nice friends who are eager to share their good fortune with me and we had some yummy funghi to accompany our lunch back home.</div>
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This October on the 28th and 29th, there will be another sagra in honor of the chestnut. There will be restaurants opened inside private homes where traditional dishes will be served. There will be desserts based on chestnuts, huge roasting machines and lots of other culinary treats. There will be music and entertainments, parades, flag throwers and drill teams. But most importantly, there will be lots of <i>loca</i>l chestnuts, not chestnuts imported from Greece as they've had to use the last few years. It's reassuring to know that after an unpleasant interlude, the gold ricci that cover the hillsides of Cervinara are back in strength, just waiting for some hungry and enterprising folks to pick them up and take them home! Buon appetito!</div>
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<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-40799188644019789002017-10-08T16:34:00.000+02:002017-10-09T21:58:45.001+02:00Shame on Us!I've written so many times about how we don't appreciate the beauty that we see every day, that it takes the eyes of an outsider to make us see what surrounds us. Sadly, this week I was on the receiving end of this message and it makes me ashamed that we have ignored what's in our own backyard for so long.<br />
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We all know about the big cities, and the medium sized towns that Rick Steves has brought to light. But the tiny villages and hilltop towns tend to be ignored. That's where the website borghipiubelliditalia.it comes in. I found out about this site while watching a weekend travel show called Linea Verde. This program celebrates so much of what makes Italy special, from the beautiful scenery to the magnificent buildings to the delicious food. The borghi piu belli site puts all this information into easily clickable bits of information and when I visited it I was surprised to see that there are several towns very near here, and one that we have gone to dozens of times over the years.<br />
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Montesarchio is one town over from Cervinara. I've always admired the castle and tower that dominates the landscape, and have known that there is a very good archeological museum there, but we've always just used Montesarchio as a shopping venue. There's a little mall that we've visited, a supermarket that carries all our necessaries, and our Tim Telephone tech center. I've always ignored the historic center. Well shame on me!<br />
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This past week our friends and cousins from Milan came down for a visit. On their list of things to do was to visit the Castello in Montesarchio. I'd been homebound for several days due to dear hubby's nasty cold and was ready for an excursion. <br />
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We started with a fantastic lunch at Colle d'Ercule, a family run restaurant at the foot of Mount Taburno. What culinary treats awaited us! This wasn't our first time at this restaurant but it was certainly our most enjoyable! Varied plates of antipasti, pappardelle with porcinis, and a fig and robiola crostata made for a most satisfying lunch, all accompanied by well chilled falanghina wine. Superb!<br />
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After lunch and a nice stroll through their gardens we drove up to the top of the promontory that looms over the town below. This was a really lovely spot that is worth a visit and I feel so bad that with all the friends and family who have visited us over the years, we've never taken them here. <br />
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We went through the museum that is free of charge and were amazed at the wealth of this collection, all relics from ancient civilizations in this area, and many excavated from Via Cervinara!</div>
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From the museum we walked down a narrow pathway and into the old borgo, in search of an 8th century sanctuary. There isn't much left of it, but it was lovely finding this ancient place of worship.</div>
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Our day was blessed with blue skies, mild winds and strolls through history. </div>
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I promise to all those who will come to visit us in the future that we will not ignore the beauty and history that lie not 15 minutes from our front door. And I also promise to try not to be one of those who require the presence of "outsiders" to appreciate what I have been given! </div>
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Next year we'll be exploring Sant'Agata dei Goti, another town in our area that is among the most beautiful borghi of Italy. There's always something new to discover, here in this beautiful part of the world!</div>
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<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-34476943765349694352017-09-30T17:08:00.000+02:002017-09-30T17:08:18.763+02:00PDA'sAnyone who has taught high school for more than a week knows what PDA's are (public displays of affection, for the uninitiated among you). But here in Cervinara, and in so many other small towns in this area, PDA's are my shorthand for Public Displays of Art. It's a charming way to bring beauty to the streets and sometimes show important traditions and beliefs.<br />
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We don't see many PDA's "downtown". There the streets are dominated with shop fronts and restaurants. But up in the Borgo of Castello and down into the Ioffredo and Valle neighborhoods, public art is a part of daily life. Starting up in Castello, the highest neighborhood in town, there is a series of murals dedicated to the chestnut. For generations, the economy of Cervinara revolved around the chestnut harvest and other fruits of the mountains. When Castello started hosting the Chestnut Festival every October, the murals were painted to add character and a sense of history to the event. They are still there, invoking memories of the hard labor the cultivation of chestnuts entails. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWq_txC0VjD_ZnvpoIkzn0WqZ6RsK6W5VfRYBJMfTxWfb3MtOTPBzoJ-yGs45FGv-RT81ZtP2Ehp6_c3nUQtjkukdjBbRLGwbBssGY2nGNn5cuFteCPX56gaZhRn3al9zZ4odq9gq5td8a/s1600/22164032_10214151098355623_1548358432_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="1136" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWq_txC0VjD_ZnvpoIkzn0WqZ6RsK6W5VfRYBJMfTxWfb3MtOTPBzoJ-yGs45FGv-RT81ZtP2Ehp6_c3nUQtjkukdjBbRLGwbBssGY2nGNn5cuFteCPX56gaZhRn3al9zZ4odq9gq5td8a/s320/22164032_10214151098355623_1548358432_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Some of the artwork is of a more personal nature. It's not clear who the artist is in most cases, and if he or she still lives in the house that has been decorated. Today, walking down a narrow alleyway up in Castello, I came across this sketch. Half of it is missing, but I was taken by the somber feel and the simplicity of the figure. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbeuCAucVZEdCKjrMdYZrRxrAVg-wLcpbl7EqRNC-QuX9rPyd8UyTgLBpljkRdtUG2rGelKQbQ_ibgmsXbdiZxJV-XYsGIrGLTEfYmYJDrjolOjT-35kxN13MuZ5L2hLEOSDVC0Gf7A5s/s1600/22139987_10214151004473276_1127895211_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="1136" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbeuCAucVZEdCKjrMdYZrRxrAVg-wLcpbl7EqRNC-QuX9rPyd8UyTgLBpljkRdtUG2rGelKQbQ_ibgmsXbdiZxJV-XYsGIrGLTEfYmYJDrjolOjT-35kxN13MuZ5L2hLEOSDVC0Gf7A5s/s320/22139987_10214151004473276_1127895211_o.jpg" width="320" /></a> Then there is this charming and heartwarming picture of a traditional Cervinarese couple from the past. I found this in the tiniest piazza, not a 10 minute walk from our house. It's tucked away in a corner of the Valle neighborhood and I just love the sense of history and nostalgia that it imparts. </div>
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There are other pieces of public art that one encounters along the way, many of a religious nature. This simple painting shows a primitive look at our local parish church, San Nicola. There are also many paintings dedicated to various saints and religious figures. </div>
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I think for the most part, most residents of Cervinara and all those other small towns walk by these pieces of public art and never register what they are seeing. Sometimes it takes the eyes of an outsider to appreciate what a gift these works actually are. To be surrounded with beauty, both manmade and natural, gives our lives meaning. I try to find that beauty in every corner of our little town and I hope my readers will appreciate them as well. Peace.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-84923813225694029422017-09-19T16:56:00.002+02:002017-09-19T16:56:42.083+02:00Should I Stay or Should I Go?I hate earworms. You know, the little snippets of music that replay themselves constantly in your brain, that you wake up humming and go to sleep listening to in the dark? Earworms are the worst. For the last couple of days I have been living with "Should I stay or should I go". It's a forgettable song brought to mind only because of an ad campaign this year. I don't remember what product or service was being hawked, but the tagline was this lyric. So why is it my constant companion?<br />
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This summer, the sun never left. For over two months there was not a drop of rain, and nary a cloud in the sky. Temperatures routinely went into triple digits for days on end and there was no one in the streets or at the market. Cervinara, and all of Europe for that matter, was stuck in a horrible heat wave. I know this only second hand of course, because we just got here a couple of weeks ago. We've enjoyed mostly cool and comfortable weather, thank goodness. If we had had to suffer through what the local residents did, I don't know that we would have stayed.<br />
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However, the sun has become a little bit touchy lately. It comes, it goes, it rains, it clears up, it's pleasant, it pours. I think the sun has been listening to the same earworm as I have! In fact, our house has a microclimate all its own. I took two pictures this morning, not 10 seconds apart. In one I was facing north, then I turned around 180 degrees and took another shot. Here's what it's like in Cervinara today:<br />
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This was the sky to the north. </div>
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This was the view to the south. </div>
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I did three loads of laundry this morning, thinking all would be well and I would take advantage of a nice breeze and sunny skies. By the time I was ready to schlep them all upstairs to the line, it was clear that I could not trust Mr. Sun and I resorted to using my indoor racks to get the drying process started. Who knows how long it will take, but it's better than trying to outguess the weather gods in this game of "Should I stay or should I go?" Pazienza!</div>
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<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-10325947278581262352017-09-13T17:20:00.000+02:002017-09-13T17:20:01.616+02:00Nature's SurprisesToday we took advantage of an absolutely gorgeous day to take a walk up into the hills. This is always one of my favorite ways to spend a couple of hours in Cervinara and today's excursion was no exception.<br />
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The rocky cliffs provide an awesome entrance to the hill region and we certainly don't try to venture up there, but it's always an impressive sight that gives me pause. </div>
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We started up at the Mafariello Park area. Driving through winding roads, the vegetation changes from chestnut and walnut trees to pine trees and low shrubs. It's very reminiscent of driving into Maine, with the sweet smell of the pine trees redolent in the air. We always bring jugs up to Mafariello to bring home some of the icy, spring water that is usually in abundant supply. Today however, things were different. It must be due to the very hot and dry weather that everyone here suffered through this summer, but the pipe that brings the spring water to the surface brought just a dribble. Usually water comes pouring out at a couple of liters a second. I've never seen it with such a pitiful trickle, and I've been coming here since 1973. But we filled one jug and enjoyed splashing our faces and drinking from the pipe regardless.</div>
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The next stop was to take Maria Elena and Josh to the family property where we have part of a mountain with chestnut groves on it. Again, things looked good, but dry. Even the notorious spot that always has a pool of muddy water in it (notorious because we got our car stuck there in 2010 and had to call in the troops to pull us out) was just a bit mucky rather than full of water. </div>
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As we stepped out of our car, our noses were met with the unmistakable scent of sheep poop. Before we heard the bells of the herd, we smelled their contributions to the ecosystem....and it was all over the place! I was anxious to see those beauties and so we headed down another path to find their grazing area.</div>
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They were so sweet and cute, I had to take some pictures. The shepherd over in the background waved and must have thought that I was one crazy city lady, but it reminded me so much of my time in Greece where we were able to roam around with the sheep and goats, before they got served to us for lunch!</div>
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These are moments that make every day enjoyable. They may seem silly to some, but I find such joy roaming in the hills, dodging the sheep poop, admiring the majesty of our hills and looking forward to tasting our chestnuts. If we keep our eyes and minds open, we can all find beauty in Nature's gifts. <div>
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<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-41189607532085514262017-09-12T17:41:00.003+02:002017-09-12T17:41:36.427+02:00Adventures in TrainingOne of our favorite things about spending time in Italy is being able to take friends and family around to spots we love, or to use them as an excuse to visit new sites. Today, I was lucky enough to take daughter Maria Elena and her hubby Josh out to Herculaneum, a site very similar to Pompeii, but smaller and more manageable. Maria had been there about 15 years ago, but I had never been to these excavations, always opting for the more well known Pompeii. Today I was thrilled with what I saw and don't think Pompeii will be on my radar in the future!<br />
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As always, the best way to get into Naples is on our little train. Our ticket agent was on the job and suggested we buy a TIC (Ticket Integrato Campania). Turns out for under 5E per person we could get from Cervinara to Naples and from Naples to Herculaneum on one ticket. What a deal! Of course our train was 15 minutes late and quite crowded, but we were able to find seats right next to the bathroom....fun. Seats on our old little train our pretty tight, and not meant for anyone over 4'10 or 80 pounds, both benchmarks I passed at about six years of age...but I digress.<br />
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We arrived at Napoli Centrale and went immediately down to the lower level to pick up the Circumvesuviano train that takes you out past Herculaneum, Pompeii, and all the way to Sorrento. The line at the ticket window was very long but we scooted right through the gate with our prepaid ticket. Felt very smug! The platform was teeming with people, both natives and tourists alike and we were shocked when our train arrived already filled to overflowing. But we jammed in and managed to find a spot where we could grab onto a handhold. Seriously, I haven't been this close to strange men in many a moon! No secrets between us, believe you me! But 15 minutes later and we were set free to start our explorations. <br />
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A pleasant 10 minute walk down Via IV Novembre (with a quick stop for a sfogliatella!) and we were in line at the scavi di Ercolano. This is an amazing site, much more manageable than Pompeii. It doesn't extend for miles, but it gives the visitor every bit of what Pompeii offers, minus the arenas. There are the taverns, luxurious homes, brothels, and tragic remains of the victims of Vesuvius' wrath. This is all easily accessible in a visit of 2 hours or so. It's now my place of choice for Roman excavations!<br />
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On our return trip, again the craziness of southern Italy and its train system came to the surface. First, as I was putting my return ticket into the slot and waiting for the gates to open, I was pushed from behind by a group of three teenage boys. They successfully managed to push me and the three of them through the gates on my one ticket! They were so proud of their ability to game the system that I had to chuckle, but I did want to give them a swift kick in the behind too!<br />
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Then, we climb up three flights of stairs to get to the binario where the train to Naples was scheduled to leave in 15 minutes. An announcement comes on, and suddenly there's movement among all those waiting on the platform. People are leaping over the fence separating the platform from the rails, jumping onto the tracks and running across three sets of tracks to get to binario 3. That announcement that we missed had just said that there was a change in program and the train would no longer leave from binario 1 but would now leave from binario 3. So....do we schlep down three flights of stairs, do the underground tunnel to cross under the tracks and then schlep up three more flights to get to the correct binario....or do we jump the tracks like everyone else? We jump the tracks, of course!<br />
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Somehow I manage to squeeze myself through the fence, jump down onto the tracks, stumble across the gravel and rails, and then pull myself up onto the platform, just in time to get on the train. I must say, this was not one of my finer moments of grace and coordination, but thanks to Maria and Josh I made it in one piece and we were all on our way back to Cervinara, via Naples. <br />
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The rest of the trip was quite uneventful and we were even lucky enough to find a train with air conditioning for the last leg of our trip, but I don't think any of us will forget our laughing in the face of danger and becoming railroad scofflaws! It's all in a day's life here in southern Italy!dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-84875315464935960792017-09-09T16:33:00.000+02:002017-09-09T16:33:07.121+02:00Broken Bones and Broken HeartsWe're baaaack!<br />
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After a very prolonged absence, we have finally made it back to our little home in the hills. It's been so nice to see everyone, and I'm in my usual spot at the bar. The guys here are so nice and immediately cleaned off a table in the back room for me to set up my computer station. I'll be depending on them more than usual this year because we're only here for five weeks and it's not really worth it to take out an internet service contract for a month. My access will be limited to bar time unless we're off to visit with family that have Wi-Fi connections. I guess we're really roughing it this year!<br />
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As in years past, our first activities have involved getting the old place inhabitable again. While not as bad as last year's mold disaster, this year has seemed to take a lot out of us. We filled two wheelbarrows with dirt, weeds, sand, and fallen stucco chunks from the courtyard yesterday. It is amazing this house is still standing with the amount of building material we cart away every year! <br />
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After that clean up we started tackling the inside of the house. Believe me, it was a yeoman's job! Cobwebbing the ceilings, wiping a year's worth of grit off of every piece of furniture, sweeping up more grit and sand from every floor....by the fourth hour, I was really hurting. I'm not one to shy away from tough jobs, and I try not to be a complainer, but by yesterday evening I felt that every bone in my body had been beaten or broken. The Advil helped, but I was out of commission until well into the evening. Add to that the two runs to the grocery store to restock our larder, and a visit to the hardware store to make some extra keys for our new portone lock and I was ready to crash by 9:00. I'm getting too old for this!<br />
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Today, was two loads of laundry, swabbing out the bathrooms, washing floors and hosing down the courtyard and our beautiful antique stone stairs. And that is when I saw the broken hearts. <br />
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For years, we have enjoyed a beautiful plant called "cuore del professore" or "teacher's heart". My husband has no memories of Cervinara without these plants strategically placed in pots by our entry way. Its green foliage is speckled with white spots, the leaves are vaguely heart shaped and lovely to see. But it is this plant's strength in adversity that gives it its name, I am sure. They live through bitter cold and dry spells, through neglect and abuse, just the way a teacher's heart survives rejection, abuse and neglect. We could always count on these plants welcoming us home. But apparently, this year's record breaking heat and drought proved too much for the hearts. Every pot we had was filled with desiccated, brown leaves with nary a green sprout to give us hope that something might have survived. We have usually been able to count on our courtyard families to water things when we are gone, but I'm afraid that the years have taken their toll on our friends and their time here has been very limited to non-existent. I'm not sure if we will see them at all this year, and that also breaks my heart.<br />
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The years catch up to us all, I guess. I'm not willing to give up the ghost just yet, but I do know that I'm reaching a point where things just get harder and take longer than they used to. Moderation and 'hired help' are the watch words from now on. As for our cuore del professore....I have found a couple of survivors in the courtyard garden. After the weeds were cleared away a single plant appeared. It seems to be in pretty good health and maybe I'll be able to transplant some cuttings to those empty pots. Keeping fingers crossed that next year we'll have those hearts back by our door, greeting all who come our way. <br />
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Here is a photo of our lovely plants in happier times!<br />
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dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-46431928415475380522016-07-21T14:27:00.000+02:002016-07-21T14:27:02.022+02:00Cheap eats!We all know that it's pretty hard to get a bad meal in Italy. At highway rest areas, at little sidewalk stands, at food trucks....they all serve up some pretty decent food at pretty decent prices. Lately we've had a few opportunities to check out some more of the local (and nearby) dining opportunities and I must say, we haven't been disappointed.<br />
First begin with dessert. That's always been my philosophy....you may have a heart attack before you get to the best part of the meal so let's start with that! In Cervinara there are several gelaterias but in my humble opinion you can't beat Micione, the ice cream stand that is right by the Villa Communale. It's made fresh every day, and in summer twice a day! You know the ingredients because you can see the detritus waiting to be picked up in the trash. Is gelato di fragola (strawberry) on the menu? Then it's probably late spring and you will see empty strawberry flats in the trash pile. Mid summer finds lots of melon, lemon and cherry flavors. Of course there's always the season-less flavors of hazelnut, coffee, chocolate and Nutella. Can't go wrong there! And seriously, I have eaten gelato all over the peninsula and I think we in Cervinara have some of the best there is. And I'm not the only one who feels this way. We have taken friends and family here for delicious cones and cups and invariably they come away fat and happy with their choices! Plus a "small" cone which is huge by American standards is only 2 euros. How can you go wrong?<br />
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I'm not a huge fan of other desserts in Italy. They tend to be very dense and heavy on pastry cream or soaked in rum. Not that I turn them down....it's just that I don't think they're worth the calories for the most part. But up in Castello we have the Bar and Pasticceria Castello, a tiny hole in the wall spot with some excellent sweets. My favorites are the mignons, mini versions of bigger pastries. It's nice to have the small ones because you can have several different tastes for the price of one! They also make gelato, but I'm really partial to Micione so I don't indulge there. I do like their little mini pre-made cones that are coated in chocolate. They are just enough for a sweet finish to a meal without going overboard. Their fancy cakes are works of art as well; whether for a party or a wedding, they are as beautiful as they are tasty.<br />
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Now on to the main courses! We recently celebrated our 43 anniversary and were trying to decide where to go for a nice lunch. We decided on a restaurant called Antana in neighboring Montesarchio. This place had been recommended by friends and we had an advertising card that claimed they were open for lunch with ample parking. After finding our way onto a street that was no wider than our car we discovered that neither of these was true! I went in to a darkened room and was told that they weren't open for lunch, that the advertisement I had was out of date. If we had been a party of six or so they would have opened for us and put together a meal, but for just two it wasn't worth their effort, so we moved on.<br />
There was a new restaurant that had opened last year on the main highway that leads to Cervinara. It's called KM237 and we decided to give that a go. This was an inspired choice. We were able to have some tasty Neapolitan tempura style veggies, and two plates of very good pasta for a most reasonable 23 euros. My orecchiette with eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes was excellent, as with dh's fusilli with sausage. We also discovered that they have weekly special events such as BBQ in the garden, karaoke nights and special happy hour events. The décor is lovely and the air conditioning worked perfectly! That's no small feat here in Italy, where the AC is usually the equivalent of two guys blowing on an ice cube! We know we'll be back for more good meals in the future.<br />
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Today we decided to head up towards Benevento to a mall where we have shopped in the past. We needed to get out of the house and just have a walk around but somewhere not in the sun. We also wanted to do another lunch out. So, we did a bit of shopping and then headed over to the Buonvento Mall Food Court. This is not your usual mall food court, by any means. There is a pizza place with wood burning oven that will get you a custom made pizza in 5-10 minutes for 5 euros. But we decided to go with something more nutritious, so we made our way through the regular dinner line. <br />
We picked up our trays along with silverware and bread...very good bread and as much as we wanted. Then we picked our meals. Mike had the baccala with clams and mussels along with roasted potatoes and zucchini. I had a farro salad (farro with diced carrots, zucchini and white beans), steamed escarole and pepperoni impanate (roasted peppers with bread crumbs). OMG, it was so good. And the bill? Grand total of 19 euros, including a big bottle of water. We've eaten here before and never been disappointed, and I'm sure we'll be back. It's not worth it to cook when you can have healthy options like that at the food court.<br />
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There are so many places to get a good meal in a town like Cervinara, whether you are in the mood for an Aperol Spritz and some finger foods for happy hour or want an elegant dinner in a sophisticated ambiance. We haven't been to all of them...far from it. But it's nice to know that there's always going to be a spot for a nice meal at reasonable prices when it's too hot to cook. Buon appetito!dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-2387259898009715322016-07-04T10:09:00.000+02:002016-07-04T10:09:02.491+02:00Sounds of Silence<br />
It was getting on towards midnight when I closed my eyes just for a moment as the game went into penalty kicks, knowing that when we made the winning goal the boys in the bar would wake up the entire neighborhood with their air horns, shouts of joy, and their careening through the streets with flags flying proudly from their antennas. Sadly, I woke up to silence two hours later only to learn that Germany had beaten Italy in the UEFA cup quarter final game. Overtime, PKs, a loss. Alas, Italy has a dismal record when it comes to important games decided by PKs. The TV was still on with commentators dissecting the game, saying how our boys had played nobly, how they went further than anyone thought they would, how they had made us proud.<br />And boys they are. With the exception of Buffon, who at almost 40 could be the father of many of these young men, this was a very young team. In the aftermath of the game, during an interview one of the players broke down in tears, because of the loss of course, but also because he was convinced that these boys would not be remembered because they didn't win, that they would be a forgotten footnote in the history of this sport. I think most of us would disagree, that these boys will hold a place in the hearts of Italy for many years to come.<br />
<br />The hearts of Italy are hurting for more than just the loss of this game. This was the day when she lost nine of her citizens, nine hard-working, loving men and women who were brutally killed because they were unable to cite quotations from the Koran. Parents of young children, a husband and wife, a young woman pregnant with her first child.....all victims of irrational hatred. People from all over Italy, most involved in the textile industry, in Bangladesh either on business trips or living there permanently, people who had gathered in a restaurant for a celebratory dinner, anxiously awaiting their return home. The sadness here, the anger, the sense of loss are palpable.<br /> <br /> The national soccer team will be returning from France in defeat. Nine Italian citizens will be returning from Bangladesh in coffins. We are sad at the outcome of the game. We are devastated at the senseless loss of life. There are still flags flying, but they are at half mast. And so, there is silence here today.dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-40818325672208857052016-06-27T15:59:00.000+02:002016-06-27T15:59:01.176+02:00The Boys in the BarWe knew last year that there would be big changes in our neighborhood with the departure of our local barista Adriana. She was giving up the bar in October and when we left we weren't sure what we would find upon our return. Well, we needn't have worried. Our local watering hole is back up and running and by all appearances is doing great! <br />
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A group of young men have gotten together and have made this spot the place to be for youngsters and old folks alike. They painted, cleaned and spruced things up, making for a welcoming and friendly atmosphere. Even the bathroom, which I never dared enter, has been redone and is clean and pleasant. There are new high top stools and tables, a flat screen TV that broadcasts sports from morning to night, a selection of newspapers and, of course, bottles and bottles of Peroni beer! <br />
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For me, the best part is the free Wi-Fi. How nice it is to come in and sit down at a comfortable table, buy a Coke Zero for 1E and then spend an hour or so catching up on all the news and putting some thoughts together for family and friends back home. Later in the evening, the old guys gather for a game of cards, the local kids come in for bags of chips or ice creams, and the millennials visit with each other all while checking their iPhones. <br />
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It's a different atmosphere from what it used to be. There's definitely a younger vibe to this spot now, and that's all to the good. Whenever I despair that Ioffredo is aging and we're losing too many people, I realize that there's a whole new generation of young folks who are keeping the neighborhood vital and lively. And for those who are coming to visit....rest easy. There's a friendly spot where you can get a drink and check on the Red Sox, all in one place. dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-78079284134332931512016-06-27T15:08:00.000+02:002016-06-27T15:08:35.370+02:00Road Trip!Living in Europe is challenging in many ways; bureaucracy, strange regulations, stranger store closings....but it definitely has its rewards. First of these is how close we are to other countries, other cultures, other languages. Unlike in the States where we have to plan a full day of travel complete with passports and long trips to airports, visiting other countries here is a matter of a 90 minute flight or a bit of a road trip. This year we opted for the latter.<br />
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Our good friends and habitual travel buddies arrived at 6 am on June 8 and we were there to pick them up and head out onto the road. Poor folks....they endured 8+ hours in an airplane, only to move into a car for another five hours of driving. We pulled into Chiavari, a seaside town outside of Genoa and settled in for our first night. This was just a stop on the way to our final destination of the south of France. <br />
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Next morning we were back on the road bright and early, enduring dozens of tunnels, switchbacks and traffic jams. We eventually made our way into France, via Monaco. A brief visit to the Monte Carlo casino was our first stop, one that we could have done without, imho. Lots of glitz, not much substance. <br />
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We eventually arrived at our B&B in Antibes, Bastide de la Brague. What a lovely spot! Isabelle and Franck were wonderful hosts and our three days there passed all too quickly. <br />
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Day trips to Nice, Gourdon, St. Paul de Vence, Biot, Antibes Vieille Ville, and others filled our time and our cameras with wonderful sights. <br />
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We left the Bastide and headed off to Avignon, with an interim stop in Aix en Provence. This was a Sunday and the town was very quiet, with a great little market set up along the Cours Mirabeau. This street is a simpler, southern version of the Champs-Elysees, and we certainly enjoyed strolling in the shade of the plane trees and admiring the craftsmanship of the local artisans. <br />
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Arriving in Avignon that evening, we were met with a few shocks. Our apartment, which was our home for the next week, was not one flight up as we had been told, but two, plus one more internal flight to get to the upper sleeping areas! Two flights of curving stone steps that were a challenge for us all, but especially my husband and me, and the internal steps with no handrail! Thank goodness for our good friends who did the bulk of the heavy lifting to get us settled in. We travel light, but carrying anything up those steps proved challenging all week long. <br />
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That said, this apartment was in a superb location, right on the Place des Corps Saints. I didn't realize it when we booked it, but Rick Steves talks about this place in his France book, saying it's really the best place for aperitifs, dining and enjoying local life. Indeed, we were able to get everything we needed at the little markets in the area and we enjoyed several nice meals sitting outside enjoying the fresh air and sunshine. <br />
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Avignon itself is a lovely city and we certainly had nice walks through the old streets and markets, but we also took advantage of its location in the heart of the Luberon to visit everything from Roman ruins, medieval abbeys, ochre hills, lavender fields, great wineries and even driving to the top of Mont Ventoux, the highest mountain in the area and one that left us breathless as we drove higher and higher on narrow roads with no guardrails. We were all a bit on edge at the end of that day! We saw a lot, but there was so much more we could have seen and I hope that before too long we'll be back in Provence to take in more of what it has to offer.<br />
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Our next stop was in the Haut-Savoie where we were meeting up with an old, dear friend of mine. Josie lives in a tiny town, about 15 minutes outside of Geneva. Her house is a former barn and she graciously offered us her two bedrooms while she moved in with her daughter who lives about 50 yards away. Our first night there, Josie prepared a raclette for us and for all her family, a group of about 12 including three of her grandchildren. Raclette is a traditional dish from this area, consisting of slices of cheese that are heated up on little triangular pans, then scraped off onto boiled potatoes, charcuterie and cornichons with pickled onions. Very hearty and usually reserved for chilly winter evenings but it was certainly welcome on that unseasonably cool night. Afterwards we went to a music festival at the local café and enjoyed two hours of American blues, sung in France, by an Italian singer and his band. It was a once in a lifetime opportunity that provided us with some fantastic memories!<br />
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We also toured the medieval town of Yvoires which is right on the shores of Lac Leman and where we had a lunch of lake perch at a waterside restaurant, we visited Geneva and walked through its old town, and we drove up the Saleve mountain to view Geneva from on high. Supper there consisted of "potence", a local dish of chunks of meat stuck onto an iron mace and then doused with whiskey and set on fire tableside. Quite the spectacle!<br />
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Alas, it was time to go and we eventually found ourselves back in Italy after going through the Mont Blanc tunnel, truly an amazing engineering feat. The views we enjoyed as we drove to and then from Mont Blanc were breathtaking. Neither photos nor words are capable of describing the majesty and beauty of this area. <br />
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Two more days on the road, with overnights in Parma and Orvieto completed this trip. We discovered new foods and drinks (Aperol Spritz anyone?), reconnected with old friends and made new ones, and we made many deposits of glorious sights, both manmade and natural, to our respective memory banks. <br />
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It's not easy traveling. The strange beds, the crazy surprises, the packing and unpacking, the traffic and driving challenges all serve to make it a sometimes stressful event. But would I change it, or quit? Never!<br />
<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4081202908638243816.post-5371955878985877802016-06-26T17:38:00.001+02:002016-06-26T17:38:08.134+02:00Blue on BlueWe're back from our travels in France and Switzerland, and are again working through the chores and cleaning that two weeks away demand. But today is Sunday, and the church bells were calling us all to mass. A special mass indeed, because today was the San Nicola parish first communion service.<br />
This was the second first communion we've been to this year and it was nice to see how the services compared to each other. But one thing was a constant: the fashion parade that accompanies this very important family day.<br />
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The tradition now is that all the children dress the same, in white robes and simple flowers. That's so much nicer than how it used to be, where girls vied to outdo each other in the elaborateness of their dresses and floral arrangements. But now it's the parents who make sure to be dressed to the nines, in all their Sunday finery.<br />
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The women are always elegant; shoes that challenge gravity, fine fabrics and the latest fashions. How they manage to stay on their feet in spike heels that are at least 3 inches high as they teeter across the cobble stones is beyond me, but again, this is the woman who fell and fractured her knee cap while wearing sneakers crossing a well paved street! Maybe I'd be better off in a pair of those platforms! Dresses of brocade, tulle, and polished cotton were all in evidence today, and for the most part they looked great. No one can say that Italians don't have a fine sense of fashion!<br />
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Strangely enough, it was the men I noticed the most. There is a strange style that has been showing up the past couple of years, that of the high water/size too small pants and jackets. Why? Why do grown men wear slacks two inches above their ankles? Why do their suit coats look like they should be handed down to their younger brothers? Usually Italian men look pretty spiffy, so I'm not sure why this look is so popular now.<br />
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<a h="ID=images.1_3,5037.1" href="https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=blue+suede+shoes&view=detailv2&&id=236C91BECDC43C07709731E7F0E02F168C5220E5&selectedIndex=3&ccid=U%2fNZibC1&simid=608051436106810168&thid=OIP.M53f35989b0b5929c92bf9cf25e298061H0" id="detail" style="height: 300px; width: 250px;"><img src="https://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=OIP.M53f35989b0b5929c92bf9cf25e298061H0&w=250&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0" /></a><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
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But the look that was most prominent was the blue. Not navy, not cobalt, but a sort of deep, royal blue that looks good on just about everyone. We had noticed a preponderance of blue in the store windows during our travels, including some very neat blue suede shoes. Indeed, quite a few of the men in church today, both parents and spectators alike, were sporting these blue suede shoes. Those who didn't have on those moccasins were wearing blue leather slip-ons or even blue sneakers. The effect is quite nice, the blue footwear coupled with blue suits and lighter blue shirts. I'm sure that this blue on blue will make its appearance in the US soon, if it hasn't already. I'm certainly not always up on the latest trends. In the meantime, I look forward to analyzing how American gentlemen will adopt/adapt this Italian style to our more casual appearance. <br />
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<br />dorothy ravielehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13227459798363162666noreply@blogger.com0