Local Treats part 2

When you have a 2 1/2 year old and a 5 year old, you have to keep them busy.  Here in Cervinara, there's not necessarily a lot for a couple of little boys to do, once you've gone to the mercato and visited the baker.  The arrival of the fruttivendolo is always a highlight of each morning, and there is always kiting around the cortile on the Spiderman bike and the little pedal tractor.  But these boys need outings, they need to see new things, they need a change of scenery.  So....we pile them into the car and go in search of fun things to do.

We in Connecticut are spoiled.  Within a ten mile radius, we have at least 7 children's museums, we have public libraries with amazing children's rooms, we have parks, ponds, and pools.  Every day there is the opportunity to get outside and burn off some steam, or stay inside and explore science, wildlife, and different cultures.  We are indeed lucky.

In Cervinara and the environs, there is very little dedicated to the youngsters so we have to be creative in the ways we can fill their days.  First, the Villa Communale, that has a very nice children's playground, shaded pathways lined with fountains, and the best gelateria in the area.  While we can walk down easily enough (maybe 1.5 miles) the trip back really needs to be made by car because it's all uphill.  Pushing a stroller and holding hands with the older one is exhausting and more than this grandma can handle.  But once in the park, the boys run around like crazy, check out all the climbing spots, and wear themselves out....only to get the sugar rush from the gelato that finishes off the visit.

There is also a pleasant pool complex in town.  On sunny, warm days it's a haven for kids of all ages.  Lots of local adolescents have summer subscriptions and show up every day to meet with their peers, strut their stuff, and take daring rides down the water slides.  Our boys enjoyed the kiddy pool and, while not cheap at 8 euros a pop plus extra for umbrella and lounge rentals, it's a nice way to wear the boys out and get in some adult swim time as well.

In Airola, a town a few miles away, there is a nice little area called Il Giardino Segreto.  It's part zoo, part botanical reserve, and part playground.  The Sunday we went, they had hired a group of actors to act out various fairy tales in the corners of the gardens.  Since the boys don't really understand Italian well enough to appreciate that, we went on our own through the paths and the various thematic gardens.  It was good for a couple of hours of exploring, but very warm and the mosquitos made it a bit uncomfortable at times.

But even after being out of the classroom for nine years, the teacher in me still reigns supreme and I can never let a more "educational moment" pass by.  We are only about 20 minutes from the big town of Benevento which is the home of some fantastic Roman ruins, so we took advantage of a nice sunny day to go wander through some history.  Daniel was indifferent to most of it, until we came to the excavations of an ancient theater.  He loved running freely up and down the ramps that were built on top of the "scavi", and gathering rocks to take home.  But James was fascinated by a huge cistern that dominated the complex.  He's been obsessed with his water barrel that we have rigged up to recapture rain water from our downspouts and was really quite impressed with the cistern that could provide water for thousands during the dry summer months.

But what has provided the most fun and interest this summer?  The baby kitty who lives in the courtyard.  The mamma and baby are naturally skittish of our two rambunctious boys, but we are winning them over with daily treats and warnings to the boys to be very quiet and patient with them.  The boys don't sit down for long anywhere else, but when the kitties are in residence they will wait patiently for a visit.

No, we don't have a lot of organized activities for a couple of youngsters, but they are enjoying a summer of exploration, freedom, and nature that is just not available back in the States.  They have learned to holler their greetings in Italian to the neighbors, they have learned how to buy bread, fruit and vegs from local vendors, they have learned about some "really old stuff", and they have learned that it's ok to live differently from what they are used to.  And those are the best lessons of all.

Local treats

Of the so many great things about living in Italy, one of the best is the opportunity to get to know a place in depth.  We are fortunate enough to be in the middle of some wonderful sites, all the more wonderful because they are not widely known.  No one would plan a trip specifically to visit our area, but those of us lucky enough to be here for the long term are able to see some interesting and picturesque spots, all within an easy drive from home.

First, the beautiful Sant'Agata dei Goti.  Settled in the early 300s, it used to be called just Sant'Agata.  Then it was conquered by the Goths and since then it has been called Saint Agatha of the Goths.  There haven't been any Goths around for quite some time, but the name has stuck.  This is not to be confused with the beautiful Sant'Agata di Puglia, which has welcomed us several times and which was the subject of one of our more harrowing driving experiences.  I'm not sure who Sant'Agata was, but she has certainly inspired some beautiful towns!

Located about a half hour from Cervinara, the road to Sant'Agata dei Goti takes us through some lovely farmland and up and down beautiful hills.  Driving into town requires crossing over a deep ravine on which the historic center is built.  Amazing views!  One of the best things about Sant'Agata is that it has parking.  Lots of parking, within a few steps of the pedestrian city center!  That's a much appreciated rarity here.  Once inside the old walls, we can stroll through cobble stone streets, make leisurely visits through the many churches and the Duomo, and finally wend our way up to the walls that look out onto that ravine.  We came here with our grandsons, two year old Daniel and five year old James.  Walking along the ramparts, Daniel kept looking over the wall and yelling, "What a view! What a view!" It's embarrassing when your grandchildren pick up and expand upon your linguistic tics, but I guess he's heard me exclaim that same sentiment more than once!

There's a pretty little park at the top of the town, with a fountain/fish pond that fascinated the boys more than any of the old buildings.  And there's a pretty café in a most  pleasant spot with "what a view!"  This little town deserves a visit and the best part is, it's easily accomplished in a couple of hours, just in time to enjoy an excellent lunch.

We needed something easy, kid friendly, and not too pricey, and our stop at the Antico Borgo filled the bill well.  While not haute cuisine, the waitstaff was wonderful and included our hostess who immediately seated us in a quiet corner and brought the boys pages of cartoon characters and markers to color them in.  When I asked that the boys be served ASAP, within five minutes their gnocchi and ravioli were on the table and they happily dug into their lunches.  This is what I like so much about small restaurants in Italy....they really will try to accommodate you and the needs of their younger clients.

So, when in Cervinara, take advantage of what the Valley has to offer and make a visit to Sant'Agata dei Goti.  You won't regret it!

Goodbyes

There are so many ways to say goodbye in the Italian language.  First, there's the ubiquitous "ciao", that has become a universal way of greeting and leaving friends and strangers alike.  Then there are the "a" words.  Arrivederci (until we see each other again), a venerdi (see you Friday), a presto (see you soon), a la prossima (until next time).  They go on and on.

And then there's "addio".  This is a hard one, because the essence of the word is one that indicates finality....we will see each other when we are with God.  It's what lovers say when they break up, it's what emigrants must say when they are leaving their home country, and it's what we say to our loved ones who have gone on to their reward.This year, as in years past, we have had to say addio to loved ones.  Our little corner of Cervinara has been hit by the loss of some of our most beloved members.

Three weeks ago, as we were leaving for a quick trip to the grocery store, we heard ambulance sirens coming up our hill.  We didn't know its destination but we were worried.  Half an hour later we returned to find a crowd gathered around our neighbor's house and we learned the sad news that Pasqualina had passed away.  Pasqualina, a gem of a woman, tiny in stature but big in heart, who sat at her kitchen window and greeted everyone who came by, who rarely left her home because of her failing vision and her frail health, but a woman who opened her heart and her home to all, left a giant hole in our hearts with her passing.

Only a few days later we heard the news that our Don Giorgio, the priest who led the Church of San Nicola for over 50 years had died in a hospital in Avellino.  We had noticed that the house where he lived across the street from us was closed up and that there was no sign of him or Teresa, his sister.  Don Giorgio had taken ill while visiting his family and had been hospitalized for several weeks and eventually succumbed to his illness.  The mass celebrating his life was packed, including the Bishop from Benevento who talked about this humble man who led a quiet life and set a good example for all in the parish.  There were at least five priests in presence who had been introduced to the canonical life by Don Giorgio.  And there were so many young people, including young men whom I remember being chastised for chatting during mass, crying at the loss of this good man.

Losing Don Giorgio has also meant losing his sister Teresa.  She was as devoted to him as any sister could be and spent her entire adult life looking after his needs and attending to the needs of the church as well.  It was she who showed me the trick of using a 10 lira coin instead of a euro to get access to the shopping carts at the Lidl supermarket.  It was she who helped me get access to a great physical therapist when I was recovering from my fractured knee.  It was she who could be counted on to squeeze four adult women in to her tiny Fiat 500 for a jaunt to the mall.  She was a friend to all.  She has gone to live with the rest of her family now, rather than stay in the empty house she shared with her brother.  The loss of both of these anchors of our neighborhood is sorely felt.

As I write these words, I am on a train heading north to Milano.  This is not a pleasure trip, and not one that we have looked forward to with anticipation.  We are going to say "addio" to our cousin Rita, who lost her battle to leukemia on Friday.  Rita was a tough woman, tiny in size but feisty and strong.  She loved to travel and we spent some great times together visiting the great sites of the Northeast and Canada, and then the wonderful parklands out west in California, Nevada and Utah.  We spent many weeks at her home in Puglia, reveling in the warmth of the sun and the warmth of her hospitality.  Our times in Puglia were marked by great food, lots of exploring the natural beauty of the area, and late night marathon card games.  How we will miss all of these!

Yes, "addio" is not a word we like to say, and yet it is an inevitable part of our lives.  We have said "addio" too often this year, but we are strengthened by the memories of the loved ones who have moved on.  You will all be missed.  You are all still loved.