Well, it's been a crazy ride these past few years! We are finally back in Cervinara after three years of uncertainty about what was happening around the world. While many things have changed, some things have remained the same, and for the past three weeks we have been trying to get a handle on just what life is going to be like going forward here.
We have spent these weeks getting reacquainted with our old compound, remembering old issues and discovering new ones daily! We have found leaky faucets, a broken, rotted door, overgrown yard and trees, crumbling of some of the stucco that has weakened over the years, as well chipping paint and just plain cosmetic issues that need to be addressed. We have also rediscovered the sanctity of the August vacation, which makes it nearly impossible to find tradespeople to come give estimates or even open stores where we can get supplies.
We have also been getting reacquainted with neighbors and friends while missing those who are no longer with us. We miss our courtyard friends who came down from Rome for a quick visit to check on their home and touch base with us. Our daily conversations, recipe exchanges, and gossip sessions had been an integral part of our days here and they are sorely missed. We no longer see our centenarian neighbor Giovanina who amazed us with her energy and strength as she climbed her outdoor stairs many times over the course of a day, who cooked for herself and even tended a small garden patch. She is well but is living with her daughter as her cataracts have made independent living impossible for her. We still see our dear friend Bertuccio, the hardest working person I have ever met. Every day he was out in his garden, tending to the fruit trees and grape vines, harvesting his potatoes and tomatoes, chopping fire wood and using his axe to handcraft tool handles. He's had some health issues and is frailer than I've ever seen him, but he's still out and about, keeping an eye on all his projects and keeping the rest of us on our toes!
Some businesses did not survive the shutdown while others not only survived but have thrived. The Castello neighborhood is booming with new businesses, housing improvements, and a new appreciation for the mountains and all their gifts. The area has changed from a dying, barren spot to one with bars, restaurants, an acclaimed pastry shop, and birreria. It's hopping day and night!
The piazza across from the church is also a welcome improvement, with a small playground, a drinking fountain, and our iron wolf that scares but intrigues all the little ones. It was finally finished after years of planning and false starts, and now it is a focal part of the community.
We finally took a break last night to head up to one of the restaurants that have been part of the renaissance of the neighborhood. Three years ago it was a relatively new establishment and we enjoyed some great food there, so we decided it was time to treat ourselves to a night out. La Loggia is thriving and it was full of people enjoying the food, the traditional décor, and the convivial atmosphere. While the food was a little bit salty for our taste, we had some really nice antipasti, a big bowl of pasta e patate, and grilled little lamb chops with salad. I was stuffed by the end of the night and we fairly rolled down the hill to home.
So now we are just about ready to start our real vacation. We will be on the road for the next three weeks, exploring some new parts of Italy, doing a train tour through Switzerland, exploring the Burgundy region of France, and finally heading to an agriturismo in Alba for some downtime before heading back to Cervinara. We are looking forward to learning, seeing and tasting new things and new experiences. I think we've earned it!
