The Belvedere

A few years ago I wrote a blog post entitled "Why Italy Makes Me Cry".  It was about how, when blessed with such natural and man made beauty, the people of Italy all too often not only ignore it but deface it.  I found it sad that while the interior of every home I have ever entered has been spotlessly and meticulously clean, the outside areas and public buildings are littered with garbage and graffiti.  If only a small fraction of the attention that is paid to their private spaces were dedicated to the public spaces, Italy could truly be a remarkably beautiful country.  Sadly, I see very little progress in that regard.

As we exit the Nazionale (the main artery that takes all traffic into the Valle Caudine), the off ramp is strewn with plastic bags tossed recklessly from passing cars.  Discarded tires, mattresses, and all manner of litter adorn the route to Cervinara.  I don't know how much of it is from local traffic and how much is from those just passing through....it just indicates a lack of civic responsibility on a national level.  Not all areas of the country are as egregiously littered as the region of Campania, but graffiti abounds everywhere and it is clear that there is much progress to be made regarding respect for the environment.

So yesterday as we were planning a small excursion, I decided it was time to finally go up to the Belvedere of Nazareth.  I had seen signs for this spot for years but we never bothered to follow through and scope it out.  But we had an open day with nothing on the agenda, and it was beautifully clear and relatively cool, so we headed up into the hills.  Coppola is not the area we usually climb.  It's another mountain that leads out of Cervinara and we had never gone up in that direction.  We followed the signs until, as is typical, there were no more.  But knowing that we had to go up, we followed a relatively steep road that became full of the twists and turns that we have come to expect.  After five or six hairpin turns, there it was, and it indeed was a Belvedere (beautiful view).

There was a large statue of Christ set on a rock pedestal.  Arms upstretched, he looks down on the valley below as if giving a benediction.  Carved into the surrounding rocky outcroppings are sculptures and inscriptions, all reflecting the beauty of the area. 

Unfortunately, along with the beautiful view came the disappointing lack of care and respect that this spot should be provided.  The bench meant to allow a restful place for contemplation was in disrepair, but I could handle that.  It's a wooden bench exposed to the elements and, while in need of some sprucing up, it still was able to do its job.  But the litter and dirt surrounding the viewing area was sickening.  Empty cigarette packs, cigarette butts, paper and general detritus, and of course the ubiquitous used condom were all present.  Nothing huge, nothing that couldn't have been easily brought home in one's car (well except maybe the condom!), but garbage that was just carelessly tossed away without a thought for those who would follow, to say nothing of a general respect for the purpose of the area. 

Coincidentally, my friend Francesco, who happens to be one of the biggest supporters of Cervinara and its beauty, also happened to go to the Belvedere yesterday.  He posted pictures of the area showing the sad state it is in and expressed his rage at how thoughtless his fellow residents were.  He routinely comes up here to clean the area but it continues to be abused and disrespected.  I didn't take pictures of the trash, preferring to remember it as the lovely area it was intended to be.  But the images remain in my head, the anger remains in my heart, and a lack of hope for what this country will become remains embedded in my soul.  Italy can do better.  We can all do better.  It's not that hard.  So just do it!